Pandra | 2024 NE Face

A Japan expedition to Pandra in 2024 via NE Face, led by Akihiro Oishi. Summit reached on 29th October 2024. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11555
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PAND24301
Peak ID PAND
Year 2024
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Akihiro Oishi
Sponsor Team Wasabi Japanese Pandra Expedition 2024
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach KTM to Taplejung by car, to Sekatum by Jeep. Trekked from Sekatum to BC.
Basecamp Date 2024-10-12
Summit Date 2024-10-29
Summit Time 0820
Summit Days 17
Total Days 21
Termination Date 2024-11-02
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6670
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/10,5100m),ABC(16/10,5300m),Biv1(25/10,5500m),Biv2(26/10,5800m),Biv3(27/10,6200m),Biv4(28/10,6500m),Smt(29/10)
Route Notes Approach: KTM to Taplejung by car, to Sekatum by Jeep. Trekked from Sekatum to BC on 05/10. BC 12/10 5100m on eastern side Lhonak Glacier ABC 16/10 5300m on western side of Chabuk Glacier Biv1 25/10 5500m Biv2 26/10 5800m Biv3 27/10 6200m Biv4 28/10 6500m in a snow cave not far from the summit Smt 29/10 by all members at 8:20 am. Alpine-style ascent, no Sherpa support above BC. Route choice because of Kei Taniguchi, who in autumn 2015 reached an altitude of 6600m and who passed away shortly afterwards. The summit of Pandra according to inreach device of Takayanagi is 6665m. Members acclimatized on a 6200m peak east of Chabuk Glacier (same as French team 2017). They had photos of the 2017 French expedition and could see that conditions on the mountain had changed a lot since then. Base camp isolated place. No proper trail to BC, no trekkers. Summit push started on 24/10. From BC to ABC. Quite difficult walk from BC to ABC, large parts of glacier melted away in comparison to 2017. On 25/10 start from ABC at 7 am, reached first bivy location at 5 pm. From ABC 3 hours walk over glacier to the base of the wall. On 26/10 start at 8 am, reached second bivy at 5 pm. On 27/10 start at 8 am, reached third bivy at 4 pm. On 28/10 start at 8 am, reached bivy 4 at 6:30 pm in the dark. Bivy in snow cave nearby the top, very cold night. On 29/10 start from bivy 4 at 7:50 am, reached the summit at 8:20 am. Stayed on the summit for 30 minutes. A lot of space on the summit, like a plateau. Beautiful views on Jannu and Kangchenjunga, weather was great. After summit down to bivy 4, arrived at 4 pm. Next day to ABC, rappelling all the way, same way as ascent. On 31/10 to BC On 02/11 to Lhonak On 03/11 to Ghunsa On 04/11 to Amjilosa On 05/11 to Taplejung On 06/11 to Badrapur by car, from there plane to KTM. Very bad conditions compared to 2015 when Taniguchi was there. Not much ice on the wall, not many options for belays or protection. Crux: From ~6200-6300m lose rocks and snow, no ice, bad for belays and protection. At 6400m vertical and sometimes overhanging terrain, hard section, exhausting rock climbing in altitude. Just before bivy 4 sugary snow, no ice. They used snow bars for little bit of protection, but it was scary, almost no protection. Members roped up for entire climb with a double rope. Route name: “A piece of the sun”. Oxygen: Not taken, not used Records: New route variant on NE Face. Accidents, etc: On 05/10 Tika Bahadur Rai, 41, a member of the BC kitchen crew, died in a rock fall incident shortly after team started walking from Sekatum. Team was running through a section of the trail, which is known for frequent rock fall, when he was hit on the head by a large rock and was killed instantly.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Adventure
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2465922
Year 2024
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Akihiro Oishi M 1979 Japan Leader Shimizu, Shizuoka, Japan Student of international relations Details Other expeditions
Hiroki Suzuki M 1980 Japan Climber Fujisawa, Kanagawa, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Suguru Takayanagi M 1988 Japan Climber Yokohama, Kanagawa, Japan Part-timer Details Other expeditions
Tika Bahadur Rai M - Nepal Kitchen Crew Silichong-5, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PAND24301 - - https://explorersweb.com/light-japanese-teams-succeed-on-two-little-known-6000ers-in-nepal/ - - -