Panpoche 1 | 2019 W Ridge-N Ridge

A Georgia expedition to Panpoche 1 in 2019 via W Ridge-N Ridge, led by Archil Badriashvi. Summit reached on 3rd October 2019. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10498
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PAN119301
Peak ID PAN1
Year 2019
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge-N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Georgia
Leaders Archil Badriashvi
Sponsor Georgian Himalayan Expedition 2019
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Trek to Samagaon from Dharapani via Larkya La
Basecamp Date 2019-09-26
Summit Date 2019-10-03
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 7
Total Days 11
Termination Date 2019-10-07
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6620
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Summited Panpoche II
Campsites BC(26/09,4300m),Biv1(30/09,5600m),Biv2(01/10,5850m),Biv3(02/10,6380m),Smt(03/10)
Route Notes Both climbs in pure alpine style, no Sherpas above BC, no oxygen. Just BC staff, a cook and assistant cook. Panpoche II: 18/09: Base camp at 3900m (two hours walking from Samagaon). 20/09: Bivouac at 5800m on SW Ridge. They followed SW Ridge from BC to bivouac location. 21/09: Stayed in bivy, bad weather. 22/09: Started from bivy at 5:30 am, reached the summit at 5 pm. Very bad weather the whole expedition. Quite dangerous climb, lose rocks on the ridge, not much options for belays. Not vertical, but steep climb. They used minimum protection. Rock too bad for belays. From bivy location they traversed for a while to SW Face, which they climbed to the summit, a steep snowy face up to summit (up to 80°). Weather on summit day okay. It was snowing in the morning, but sky cleared on the way up. After summit a 6-hour descent to bivouac. Descent on slighty different route, on S side, down a couloir with bad snow, steep sections. Reached bivy at 12 pm midnight. Very bad snow conditions. They only used rope on ridge between BC and bivy and on first part of SW Face. After that not possible to place reliable anchors. 23/09: Descent to BC, same location as on ascent. 24/09: To Samagaon. Stayed in Samagaon for a few days. Panpoche I: 26/09: Base camp at 4300m in the valley east of Samdo. Bad weather for a few days 30/09: weather started to get better and they established first bivouac at 5600m. 01/10: bad weather, but they climbed for several hours to second bivouac at 5850m. 02/10: climbed to third bivouac at 6380m. 03/10: Started from bivy at 5 am. Reached the summit at 2 pm. Followed the North Ridge from the bivy, and had to traverse a wide plateau just east of the ridge. Tough snow conditions again, quite dangerous, avalanche danger and they had to break trail through the snow. Very narrow and dangerous summit ridge, sharp cornices, no possibility to place protection because of soft snow. Followed the ridge for about 4 hours to the summit. They roped up on the ridge. Summit very narrow, only space for 1 person at a time. Spent around 40 minutes at the summit. Then down to Biv3, same as on ascent, reached it at 6 pm. 04/10: Descent all the way to BC (same as on ascent). Rest days in BC for 3 days. 07/10: To Bimthang. 08/10: To Dharapani. 09/10: To KTM.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Satori Adventures
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462669
Year 2019
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-n ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Archil Badriashvili M 1990 Georgia Leader Tblisi, Georgia Alpine guide & medical student Details Other expeditions
Bakari Gelashvili M 1986 Georgia Climber Borjomi, Georgia Rescue guide Details Other expeditions
Giorgi Tepnadze M 1989 Georgia Climber Tbilisi, Georgia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PAN119301 AAJ Badrishvili, Archil Panpoche II and Panpoche I, First Ascents - 94:315-316 (2020) -
PAN119301 - Badrishvili, Archil http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215448 - - -