Ohmi Kangri | 1989 W Face-SW Ridge

A USA expedition to Ohmi Kangri in 1989 via W Face-SW Ridge, led by Rick Richards. Summit reached on 9th May 1989. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 824
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID OHMI89101
Peak ID OHMI
Year 1989
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Rick Richards
Sponsor Ohmi Kangri 1989
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Yangma->up valley->BC
Basecamp Date 1989-04-21
Summit Date 1989-05-09
Summit Time 1120
Summit Days 18
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6839
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/04,5000m),C1(27/04,5650m),C2(03/05,6500m),C3(06/05,6700m),Smt(09/05)
Route Notes BC right below Pandra Glacier C1 on Pandra Glacier C2 on SW Ridge above West Face C3 on SW Ridge. Had lot of sickness (chest and stomach) so were unable to mount as many summit teams as wished. All members to C1, 3 to C2, 2 members above C2 (1 got altitude sickness and down, the other to C2 on up to C3 and summit with 2 Sherpas. "Without the Sherpas we would never had made it to the top - we didn't have the strength, we would never had made it to the top." Not possible to collect enough strong members to make another attempt with support. Had reasonably good weather with mornings clear. Snow fell in afternoon and melted in mornings. Technical difficulties between C2 and C3: rocks requiring fixed rope and some ice. From C3 to top was not as Swiss had it; was knife ridge this month.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement 1st American ascent
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450995
Year 1989
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-sw ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Mingma Gyalzen Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Sean Elder M 1961 USA Climber Anchorage, Alaska Office machinery sales Details Other expeditions
Jan Harris M 1963 USA Climber Olympia, Washington Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Lily Mayer F 1966 USA Climber Stowe, Vermont Student Details Other expeditions
Timothy Andrew Mayer M 1966 USA Climber Esher, Surrey, England Business student Details Other expeditions
Sarah Mayer F 1943 USA Climber Esher, Surrey, England Housewife Details Other expeditions
David McGowan M 1939 USA Climber Anchorage, Alaska Businessman Details Other expeditions
Jean Richards F 1937 USA Climber Arroyo Seco, New Mexico Housewife & investor Details Other expeditions
Rick Richards M 1941 USA Leader Arroyo Seco, New Mexico Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Peter Christian Woll M 1964 USA Climber Stowe, Vermont Furniture maker Details Other expeditions
Ken Zafren M 1953 USA Exp Doctor Anchorage, Alaska Physician Details Other expeditions
Da Nuru (Dawa Nuru/Norbu) Sherpa M 1959 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Sangay Dorje Sherpa M 1967 India Sirdar Darjeeling, India Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
OHMI89101 AAJ Zafren, Ken - - 64:217-218 (1990) -
OHMI89101 MM - - - 128:15 (Jul 1989) -
OHMI89101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199021702/Asia-Nepal-Ohmi-Kangri - - -