Ohmi Kangri | 1985 W Face-SW Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Ohmi Kangri in 1985 via W Face-SW Ridge, led by Ruedi Meier. Summit reached on 14th April 1985. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 179
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID OHMI85101
Peak ID OHMI
Year 1985
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Ruedi Meier
Sponsor Swiss-Nepalese Ohmi Kangri Expedition 1985
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st-3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach From southwest (Yangma)
Basecamp Date 1985-03-23
Summit Date 1985-04-14
Summit Time 1215
Summit Days 22
Total Days 28
Termination Date 1985-04-20
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6839
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 420
Total Members 10
Summit Members 9
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/03,5130m),C1(27/03,5740m),C2(30/03,6450m),C3(10/04,6810m),Smt(14,18,20/04)
Route Notes BC at Pandra Glacier east of Syao C1 on glacier west of SW Ridge C2 on SW Ridge (Japanese C3 site) well protected C3 on SW Ridge (1 or 2 hours before from "East Peaks" of Japan). Reached C2 from Glacier up West Face to camp's site on ridge, where route reached ridge, West Face not steep or difficult - all snow (no ice). Ridge itself not very difficult but from C2 to C3 (took time fixing rope - 420m fixed rope). From C3 to summit only 50m fixed rope, used alpine technique (in contrast to Japanese who spent much time fixing lots of rope to "Japanese" summit). Weather was very good and every day "we did something" but very strong wind and at C3 Sherpa's tent destroyed by wind. Had planned to climb West Ridge but found it too dangerous from avalanches. Also expeditions goal was for all members to reach summit and too difficult to reach West Ridge from glacier because of icefalls for all members. Rieder, Swiss - 16 May 85 Ohmi Kangri really has one summit. Point needed by Japanese in '82 is just a point on SW Ridge. There are 2 points on SW Ridge: "East Peak" and "Central Peak," but real summit is the northwest or "West Peak." Ohmi Kangri is a large dome without difficulty. We followed SW Ridge over two teeth, "East and Central Peaks" to highest point. East and Central are no summits, only two difficulties on the ridge.
Accidents None
Achievement 1st ascent of Ohmi Kangri
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449505
Year 1985
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-sw ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michel Abplanalp M 1960 Switzerland Climber Le Landeron, Neuchatel, Switzerland Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Daniel Chevallier M 1939 Switzerland Deputy Leader Chaumont, Neuchatel, Switzerland Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Hans Diethelm M 1951 Switzerland Climber Neuchatel, Switzerland Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Rudolf (Ruedi) Meier M 1941 Switzerland Leader Auvernier, Switzerland Foreman in electronics factory Details Other expeditions
Jean-Daniel Pauchard M 1951 Switzerland Exp Doctor La Jonchere, Neuchatel, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions
Andre Rieder M 1933 Switzerland Climber Lignieres, Neuchatel, Switzerland School administrator Details Other expeditions
Terenzio Rossetti M 1959 Switzerland Climber Les Iles, Geneva, Switzerland Technician Details Other expeditions
Alain Vaucher M 1950 Switzerland Climber Boudry, Neuchatel, Switzerland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Francois Vuilleme M 1953 Switzerland Climber Couvet, Neuchatel, Switzerland Dentist Details Other expeditions
Nicolas Wyrsch M 1960 Switzerland Climber Cressier, Switzerland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Ang Nima Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Da Nuru (Dawa Nuru/Norbu) Sherpa M 1959 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Sangye Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
OHMI85101 AAJ Meier, Ruedi - - 60:217 (1986) -
OHMI85101 HJ Meier, Ruedi Ohmi Kangri Himal 1985 - 42:23-26 (1984-1985) -
OHMI85101 - Pauchard, Jean-Daniel & Meier, Ruedi Ohmi Kangri Himal 85 By expedition, Auvenier, Switzerland - -
OHMI85101 MM - - - 105:11 (Sep 1985) -
OHMI85101 MM - - - 110:9 (Jul 1986) -
OHMI85101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198621702/Asia-Nepal-Ohmi-Kangri - - -
OHMI85101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/42/5/ohmi-kangri-himal-1984/ - - -