Nuptse West II | 1988 NW Ridge-NW Smt

A S Korea expedition to Nuptse West II in 1988 via NW Ridge-NW Smt, led by Cho Hyung-Kyu. Summit reached on 22nd December 1988. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9742
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPW88401
Peak ID NUPW
Year 1988
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge-NW Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Cho Hyung-Kyu
Sponsor 1988/89 Korean Winter Nuptse West Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1988-11-27
Summit Date 1988-12-22
Summit Time 1405
Summit Days 25
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes Summited NW Smt
High Point (m) 7732
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 4800
Total Members 11
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(27/11,5200m),C1(03/12,5800m),C2(07/12,6500m),C3(12/12,6800m),C4(16/12,7200m),NW-Smt(22/12)
Route Notes BC at NSW of point 5456m, start of NW Ridge C1 on NW Ridge C2 before and below point 6686m C3 on ridge beyond point 6686m C4 at north side of ridge. From BC route went round to north side of point 5456m and up side of NW Ridge. No C1 because too much of wind. 4 times tried to go to W Summit but very strong cold winds defeated 3 bids. On 4th did reach W Summit. Very difficult last section to W Summit. Fixed 4800m rope total from little below C1 to 200m above C4 where ropes finished and used climbing ropes. Climbed from C4 at 7 am; summited 14:05, C4 19 hrs. 23rd Dec 2nd attack from C2 by 2 members but again strong wind and Sherpas not willing to try, so reached only 200m above C4 and gave up. Climb finished and all members went down. Frostbite Bae Hyun-Chul black fingers; same for Chun Bong-Gon and Kim Hwa-Gon deep frostbite and will loose finger tips. Phinzo Sherpa also same serious frostbite. Winter Ascent and Tragedy by Cho Hyung-Gyu The party planned to climb the mountain through west ridge. They set up C1 at 5800m on Dec 3rd. They advanced mixed snow and rock in dangerous section and then set up C2 at 6800m. The weather deteriorating and they were storm-bound for 4 days. The partly led on the difficult route and fixed a rope in the long and steep snow slopes to C3. Finally, they set up two box tents at C3 on spot of 7400m on 16th. It was changed to the worst weather on the summit day but 1st attack party started to the summit. However they backed without moving more advance because there appeared the crevasse on the upper plateau below the summit ridge. Severe winner winds and considerable snowfall defeated their 1st attack party. They revised all plans and entered the 2nd attack on 22nd. The member Oh Sei-Chul, Chun Bong-Gon, Kim Hwa-Gon and Bae Hyun-Chul departed C4 for the summit at 07:30. 4 members reached cornice below the summit. They climbed and at last got to the top at 14:05. Actually they succeed first winter ascent of Nuptse West. Even all members were unexperienced with the Himalayan mountains though they have achieved a real remarkable success. They had on epic descent. The team described the struggle as "Physically and mentally very demanding." On Dec 23 the 2nd attack party had left C4 for the summit but they evacuated because the strong wind and poor visibility. 4 summiters and 2nd attack party come back BC on Dec 24. 3 members of summiters had to cut all hand and foot due to severe frostbite.
Accidents Hyun black fingers; Bong and Hwa deep frostbite and will loose finger tips; 1 Sherpa also serious frostbite
Achievement 1st ascent of W Summit, 1st winter ascent of any summit of Nuptse; 1st ascent of Nuptse
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453511
Year 1988
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge-nw smt

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hyung-Gyu Cho M 1950 S Korea Leader Haman, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Hyun-Chul Bae M 1960 S Korea Climbing Leader Masan, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Salesman Details Other expeditions
Jin-Oh Jang M 1950 S Korea Deputy Leader Masan, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Engineer Details Other expeditions
Gab-Jin Cheung M 1964 S Korea Climber Changwon, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Engineering teacher Details Other expeditions
Bong-Gon Chun M 1960 S Korea Climber Changwon, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Engineer Details Other expeditions
Sung-Jae Chung M 1963 S Korea Climber Changwon, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Engineer Details Other expeditions
Hwa-Gon Kim M 1966 S Korea Climber Masan, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Engineer Details Other expeditions
Jong-Kwang Lee M 1961 S Korea Climber Changwon, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Student Details Other expeditions
Se-Cheol Oh M 1964 S Korea Climber Changwon, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Engineer Details Other expeditions
Hee-Taek Park M 1964 S Korea Climber Masan, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Shop owner Details Other expeditions
Hyun-Jong Yoon M 1948 S Korea Climber Haman, Gyeongsangnam, S Korea Shop owner Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Dawa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NUPW88401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 63:199 (1989) -
NUPW88401 MM - - - 127:12-13 (May 1989) -
NUPW88401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198919902/Asia-Nepal-Nuptse-West-Summit - - -