Nuptse West II | 1984 NW Ridge-NW Smt from S
A France expedition to Nuptse West II in 1984 via NW Ridge-NW Smt from S, led by Raymond Renaud. Summit reached on 15th October 1984. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 9741 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | NUPW84301 |
| Peak ID | NUPW |
| Year | 1984 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NW Ridge-NW Smt from S |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | France |
| Leaders | Raymond Renaud |
| Sponsor | Expedition Cret Himalaya to Nuptse |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 2nd,3rd,4th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1984-09-21 |
| Summit Date | 1984-10-15 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 24 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | Success to NW Summit |
| High Point (m) | 7732 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 5000 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 8 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 8 |
| Summit Hired | 3 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(21/09,5200m),C1(24/09,5950m),C2(28/09,6500m),C3(02/10,6700m),C4(08/10,7200m),NW-Smt(15,19-21/10) |
| Route Notes | BC at Khumbu Glacier halfway between point 5456m & west of Khumbu Glacier C1 near start of NW Ridge northwest point 6686m C2 on ridge before point 6686m C3 on ridge just before point 6686m C4 on ridge before NW Summit. Between C2 and C3 very narrow ridge and very difficult climb technically. Vertical crossing with deep powder snow covering cornices. Before C2 snow and 200m mixed rock and ice just below C2. C3->C4 very hard (difficult), very steep rocks and snow but good snow. Above C4 not so steep as before (and as picture shows) and only technical difficulty is very narrow last ridge and soft snow in places. Wind was problem from 10 Oct and had to go back to C4. 2 times tried for top in next couple of days and down to C2. Total 5 km of fixed rope along this long ridge because some inexperiencd Sherpas. No time to go to main summit: too far, too windy, not enough gear. 15th Oct - cloudy, strong west wind 19th Oct - clear, no wind 20th Oct - no wind 21st Oct - strong north wind across Lho La; lost 1 tent at C4 Climbed to NW Summit only; no attempt made on main summit. |
| Accidents | None |
| Achievement | Reached NW Summit |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451708 |
| Year | 1984 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | nw ridge-nw smt from s |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Raymond Renaud | M | 1941 | France | Leader | La Salle-les-Alpes, Hautes-Alpes, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Pierre Cinquin | M | 1957 | France | Climber | Grenoble, Isere, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Francois Dantoine | M | 1954 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Francois Emond | M | 1955 | France | Climber | Manosque, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, France | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Yvan Estienne | M | 1951 | France | Climber | Les Vigneaux, Hautes-Alpes, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Gerard Pailheret | M | 1956 | France | Climber | Puy St. Vincent, Hautes-Alpes, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean-Marie Perrier | M | 1951 | France | Climber | Monetier-les-Bains, Hautes-Alpes, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Remi Roux | M | 1957 | France | Climber | Gap, Hautes-Alpes, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Rene Roux | M | 1949 | France | Climber | Embrun, Haute-Alpes, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Gerard Vionnet-Fausset | M | 1953 | France | Climber | Briancon, Hautes-Alpes, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Kami Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nima Sherpa | F | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| NUPW84301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 59:266 (1985) | - |
| NUPW84301 | MM | - | - | - | 102:15 (Mar 1985) | - |
| NUPW84301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198526601/Asia-Nepal-Nuptse-Northwest-Summit-Northwest-Ridge | - | - | - |