Nuptse West II | 1984 NW Ridge-NW Smt from S

A France expedition to Nuptse West II in 1984 via NW Ridge-NW Smt from S, led by Raymond Renaud. Summit reached on 15th October 1984. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9741
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPW84301
Peak ID NUPW
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge-NW Smt from S
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Raymond Renaud
Sponsor Expedition Cret Himalaya to Nuptse
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd,3rd,4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-09-21
Summit Date 1984-10-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 24
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes Success to NW Summit
High Point (m) 7732
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 5000
Total Members 10
Summit Members 8
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/09,5200m),C1(24/09,5950m),C2(28/09,6500m),C3(02/10,6700m),C4(08/10,7200m),NW-Smt(15,19-21/10)
Route Notes BC at Khumbu Glacier halfway between point 5456m & west of Khumbu Glacier C1 near start of NW Ridge northwest point 6686m C2 on ridge before point 6686m C3 on ridge just before point 6686m C4 on ridge before NW Summit. Between C2 and C3 very narrow ridge and very difficult climb technically. Vertical crossing with deep powder snow covering cornices. Before C2 snow and 200m mixed rock and ice just below C2. C3->C4 very hard (difficult), very steep rocks and snow but good snow. Above C4 not so steep as before (and as picture shows) and only technical difficulty is very narrow last ridge and soft snow in places. Wind was problem from 10 Oct and had to go back to C4. 2 times tried for top in next couple of days and down to C2. Total 5 km of fixed rope along this long ridge because some inexperiencd Sherpas. No time to go to main summit: too far, too windy, not enough gear. 15th Oct - cloudy, strong west wind 19th Oct - clear, no wind 20th Oct - no wind 21st Oct - strong north wind across Lho La; lost 1 tent at C4 Climbed to NW Summit only; no attempt made on main summit.
Accidents None
Achievement Reached NW Summit
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451708
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge-nw smt from s

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Raymond Renaud M 1941 France Leader La Salle-les-Alpes, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pierre Cinquin M 1957 France Climber Grenoble, Isere, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Francois Dantoine M 1954 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Francois Emond M 1955 France Climber Manosque, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Yvan Estienne M 1951 France Climber Les Vigneaux, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gerard Pailheret M 1956 France Climber Puy St. Vincent, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean-Marie Perrier M 1951 France Climber Monetier-les-Bains, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Remi Roux M 1957 France Climber Gap, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Rene Roux M 1949 France Climber Embrun, Haute-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gerard Vionnet-Fausset M 1953 France Climber Briancon, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ang Kami Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Nima Sherpa F - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NUPW84301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 59:266 (1985) -
NUPW84301 MM - - - 102:15 (Mar 1985) -
NUPW84301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198526601/Asia-Nepal-Nuptse-Northwest-Summit-Northwest-Ridge - - -