Nuptse West II | 1977 NW Ridge-NW Smt from N

A Japan expedition to Nuptse West II in 1977 via NW Ridge-NW Smt from N, led by Haruo Kato. Summit reached on 11th May 1977. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9740
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPW77101
Peak ID NUPW
Year 1977
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge-NW Smt from N
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Haruo Kato
Sponsor Japan Expedition to Mt. Nuptse by the Toho-Keiryu-Kai Team 1977
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st of NW Smt
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1977-03-17
Summit Date 1977-05-11
Summit Time 1145
Summit Days 55
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes Success on NW Smt
High Point (m) 7732
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/03,5200m),C1(24/03,5700m),C2(05/04,6200m),C3(18/04,6600m),C4(28/04,6900m),C5(08/05,7350m),NW-Smt(11/05)
Route Notes Kunii & Koto - 23 May 77 All members in KTM. Tamada has frostbite 3 toes but will heal. From C5 7350m. Others Ok. 1st summit attack Kato and Tamada 9 May but reached 7670m above C5 and C3 more fixed ropes of 150m to NW Peak (70m vertical), but no biv equipment and time limit; reached 5 pm and arrived back C5 7 pm. 2nd attack started 10 May left C5 5:30 am, Kunii and Jambu Sherpa. Reached 7550m biv half snowhole they made with tools they brought and stayed in biv tent. Took 2 hours make hole - very cold and strong wind, no sleep. 11 May started from biv 7:30 am. 2 hrs strong wind then after that wind died and sunshine. 11:45 am Kunii stood on NW Peak 7745m which end of their pioneer route up NW Ridge. Did not traverse to main summit: long route one peak in between and knife snow ridge. All members very tired and no support: for main peak 1 or 2 more camps required. Our main plan was to climb NW Ridge and this, coupled by very famous route, very difficult knife ice ridge (thought snow ridge). 1/2 hour on snow peak taking photos and cine photos; put Japanese-Nepalese club flag on top. 3rd summit team Shimura and Honjo. 11 May left C4 6900m, but not reached C5 because exhaustion. Met 1st summit party midway between C4 and C5 and Kato saw 3rd party not in good condition and ordered back and climbing finished. BC on Khumbu Glacier very near Everest BC. Leave KTM after 1 week. Jha, MFA - 12 May 77 Assistant leader Osamu Kunii and Jambu Sherpa left C5 10 May to make final assault NW Peak. Halted at 15:30 pm at 7550m and spent night there. 11 May at 07:30 hours started further and reached NW Peak, 7745m. Assistant leader on top first at 11:45 am and Jambu Sherpa top 12:00 hours - hoisted Nepal and Japanese flags on summit. Did not use oxygen while climbing. Sufficient space for 2 persons sit on summit. Left summit at 12:15 hours and reached C5 16:30 hours although gentle breeze blowing, weather fine. All members excellent health. 1st conquest of NW Peak. Expedition abandoned attempt to reach main peak; according message leader they are returning to KTM in few days. John, MFA - 10 May 77 C5 7400m 8 May 18:00 hours leader and Tamada in C5 on 8 May. Leader Kato hopeful of making summit assault within 5 days. All members well and weather fine. Bhattarai, MFA - 21 March 77 Nuptse expedition reached BC site 16 March and at 5 pm on 17 March established camp at 5200m on Khumbu Glacier. All members and Sherpas well. Kato - 12 Feb 77 Do not climb through Khumbu Icefall; go past Gorak Shep to foot of Icefall with BC at 5300 feet nearer Nuptse then Everest BC. No avalanche problem this side Nuptse. Climb Nuptse via NW Ridge South new route 6 members leave KTM 17 Feb walking including leader 2 leave KTM 23 Feb fly with baggage Establish BC 15 March; 10 days acclimatization climbing around Thyangboche, Pheriche, etc. Summit at end April/early May Most difficult part between C3-C4 because very sharp ridge indeed here: all ridges really sharp. 1 sirdar Tsange Sherpa 3 Sherpas
Accidents -
Achievement Reached NW Summit
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448672
Year 1977
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge-nw smt from n

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Haruo Kato M 1939 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Osamu Kunii M 1944 Japan Deputy Leader Tokyo, Japan Sporting goods salesman Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Fujitsuka M 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Computer engineer Details Other expeditions
Takeo Honjo M 1942 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Minoru Inoue M 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Bookkeeper (pharmaceutical company) Details Other expeditions
Yaiko Kodama F 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Nurse in day nursery Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Shimura M 1951 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Engineer in typewriter-manufacturing company Details Other expeditions
Hitoshi Tamada M 1952 Japan Climber Matsudo, Chiba, Japan University history student Details Other expeditions
Jambu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Tsange Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NUPW77101 AAJ - - - 52:591 (1978) -
NUPW77101 JAC Kato, Haruo The North-West Ridge of Nuptse, 1977 - 73:9-10 (1978) -
NUPW77101 MM - - - 56:11 (Jul 1977) -
NUPW77101 MM - - - 57:13 (Sep 1977) -
NUPW77101 JAC Kato, Haruo The North-West Ridge of Nuptse, 1977 - 73:129-135 (1978) -
NUPW77101 IWA - - - 61:II (1978) -
NUPW77101 IWA - - - 61:28-29 (1978) -
NUPW77101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197859101/Asia-Nepal-Nuptse-Northwest-Peak - - -