Nuptse West II | 2017 S Face-NW Smt

A France expedition to Nuptse West II in 2017 via S Face-NW Smt, led by Helias Millerioux. Summit reached on 19th October 2017. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9739
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPW17301
Peak ID NUPW
Year 2017
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-NW Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Helias Millerioux
Sponsor Le Gang de Moustaches Nuptse Expedition 2017
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 8th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Jeep to Phaplu->Cholatse->Chhukung
Basecamp Date 2017-10-05
Summit Date 2017-10-19
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 14
Total Days 17
Termination Date 2017-10-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes Summited NW Smt
High Point (m) 7732
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 120
Total Members 3
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Cholatse (SW Ridge)
Campsites BC(05/10,4700m),ABC(13/10,5400m),Biv1(14/10,6000m),Biv2(15/10,6580m),Biv3(16/10,6800m),Biv4(17/10,7000m),Biv5(18/10,7450m),NW-Smt(19/10)
Route Notes BC 05/10 4700m (Chhukung) ABC 13/10 5400m (near a lake before moraine) Biv1 14/10 6000m Biv2 15/10 6580m Biv3 16/10 6800m Biv4 17/10 7000m Biv5 18/10 7450m Smt 19/10 by all 3 members at 3 pm. Day 1: Team started from ABC. The mountain was a lot drier than last year, when the team was already attempting the same route. Route to first bivouac was snowy and the last pitch mixed. Team set up their bivouac at 6000m after having climbed for about 8 hours. Before they settled in for the night, they fixed the first pitch of the 2nd day. They used about 60 metres of rope. Day 2: Team started at midnight as they were worried about rockfall. They climbed until 2 pm and set up their bivouac at 6580m. Day 3: Team started at 10 am as it was very windy in the morning. Rock and icefall not too bad. They climbed until 3:30 pm and set up their bivouac a little bit to the right of their route. There was a spur and it felt safer to bivouac there. They fixed the traverse to get to the camp – about 60 metres. Day 4: Team started at 8:30 am and climbed until 3.30 pm. On that day, there was one pitch that was about Grade VI. Day 5: Team started at 9:30 am and climbed until 6 pm. Summit Day: Team started at 7:30 am. They climbed up the snow field to gain the ridge. They climbed the ridge roped up and always made sure that one kept to the right and other one to the left. Ridge was pretty sharp. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit. Zero wind. On the way to Biv5, the down-climbed using a snow stake for security and abseiled about 100m. They arrived at about 6pm. On 20 Oct, they started from Biv5 at 7 am and descended to Biv2, where they arrived at 11 am. Millerioux was hit by a rock at about 7100m on the way to Biv5. He hurt his right shoulder, which slowed him down. The others took his bag and helped him down. They stopped at Biv2 until 6 pm. They wanted to wait for the sun to set in order to avoid rockfall. At 7 pm they continued and reached the bottom of the face at 1 am. The continued to ABC, where they arrived at 3 am. On 21 Oct, they descended to Chhukung. The route was one of the most difficult climbs the team had ever done. Sustained difficulties, every day was full of challenges and the steep and difficult route demanded constant concentration. Team left BC (Chhukung) on 22 Oct by helicopter to Kathmandu. Fixed rope: 120m Oxygen: Not taken, not used.
Accidents Millerioux hit by rock on shoulder.
Achievement -
Agency Holiday Himalaya Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463708
Year 2017
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-nw smt

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Helias Jean Millerioux M 1987 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Frederic Guillaume Degoulet M 1982 France Climber Briancon, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Benjamin Jean Joseph Guigonnet M 1988 France Climber Saint-Paul-de-Vence, Alpes-Maritimes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NUPW17301 - - https://www.facebook.com/legangdesmoustaches/ - - -
NUPW17301 HCN Alpinist Magazine - - 37:37-39 (Feb 2018) -
NUPW17301 - - http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web17f/newswire-new-route-on-nuptse-south-face - - -
NUPW17301 - - http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/nuptse-south-face-extraordianry-new-french-route-climbed-by-degoulet-guigonne-millerioux.html - - -
NUPW17301 AAJ Degoulet, Frederic Starting Over - 92:18-23 (2018) -
NUPW17301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214753/Starting-Over-Three-Years-for-a-New-Route-on-Nuptses-Vast-and-Difficult-South-Face - - -