Nuptse | 1994 Central Pillar of S Face

A France expedition to Nuptse in 1994 via Central Pillar of S Face, led by Michel Fauquet. Summit reached on 16th October 1994. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1391
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPT94301
Peak ID NUPT
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Central Pillar of S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Michel Fauquet
Sponsor ENSA-FFME Nuptse Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-09-22
Summit Date 1994-10-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 24
Total Days 25
Termination Date 1994-10-17
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7500m due to strong winds
High Point (m) 7500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 800
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/09,5200m),Dep(5600m),Biv1(14/10,6400m),Biv2(15/10,7000m),Biv3(17/10,6200m),xxx(16/10,7500m)
Route Notes BC at west side of Lhotse Nuptse Glacier east of Chhukung Peak Deposit on pillar Biv 1 on pillar (US 1986 team's high point) Biv 2 at ice on glacier Biv 3 on pillar (in descent) High point at 100m below East Summit. Made deposit of gear at 5600m. Put fixed rope from deposit in various sections to 6200m, sometimes taking 2-3 days to do the job and bivouacing on pillar. Last rest was 10th Oct, started summit push from BC 14th Oct by Fauquet and Moulin at 5 am and reached 6400m (at about where Jeff Lowe and Mark Twight stopped in ice cave at 7000m on glacier). On 16th left all gear in cave and tried to go directly to top but stoped at 7500m by "very violent wind." Even at morning from just above cave could not stand many times and at end "it was terrible" where we were exposed to wind and descended to cave for night. 17th down to 6200m for a biv and 18th to BC clearing ropes. Route was Central Pillar of S Face directly N of Lhotse Nuptse Glacier. Route was in 3 parts. 1. pillar to 1st biv (very steep, 800-900 some overhang and many difficult overhanging cornices, lot of deep snow on rock). 2. snow and ice slopes 45-60 degrees 3. very bad loose rock, unprotected rock with very thin ice on top, 60-80 degrees. * High point was 300m below Nuptse East, a virgin peak.
Accidents Vionnet-Fuasset fell and twisted his back; nothing else serious
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452941
Year 1994
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) central pillar of s face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Patrick Berhault M 1957 France Climber Chabreloche, Puy-de-Dome, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Michel Simon Fauquet M 1962 France Leader Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Christophe Moulin M 1958 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gerard Vionnet-Fausset M 1952 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NUPT94301 AAJ Fauquet, Michel - - 69:238-239 (1995) -
NUPT94301 HJ Fauquet, Michel The South Pillar of Nuptse - 52:209-212 (1996) -
NUPT94301 HIGH - - - 151:16-17 (Jun 1995) -
NUPT94301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199523803/Asia-Nepal-Nuptse-East-South-Buttress-Attempt - - -
NUPT94301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/52/21/expeditions-and-notes-52/ - - -