Nuptse | 1986 S Spur of SE Smt

A USA expedition to Nuptse in 1986 via S Spur of SE Smt, led by Jeff Lowe. Summit reached on 26th May 1986. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 949
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPT86101
Peak ID NUPT
Year 1986
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Spur of SE Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Jeff Lowe
Sponsor Colorado Kangtega-Nuptse Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-05-10
Summit Date 1986-05-26
Summit Time -
Summit Days 16
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6770m due to snowfall
High Point (m) 6770
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Lobuche East and Kangtega (KTEG-861-02)
Campsites BC(10/05,5200m),Biv1(19/05,5800m),Biv2(21/05,6100m),Biv3(22/05,6300m),Biv4(24/05,6500m),Biv5(25/05,6700m),xxx(26/05,6770m)
Route Notes BC on west side of Lhotse Nuptse Glacier Biv 1 on South Spur Biv 2 on South Spur Biv 3 on South Spur Biv 4 in cave on South Spur Biv 5 on South Spur High point on South Spur. Alpine-style attempt SE Buttress (between original British route and Cassin-Messner ramp). 12th May recce and left cache of gear 18,500 ft. Then snowfall and unable to go up till 19th when started up again and reached 19,000 ft. 21st moved up again and by 26th had just about reached top of spur and then gaing would have been "a lot easier" to SE Peak at 25,600 ft, but "got weathered off" and 3 days more climbing to this summit. Spur was very severe hard rock and snow made it impossible to climb. "Is fabulous climb, best in the area" - perfect rock (hard granite), steep, difficult, safe (only one rock fall during climb), technical climb to 23,000 ft where easy black rock, snow and ice begin. Lowe and Twight plan to return to this route this winter. Sandy Allan, Lhotse Shar - 25 Aug 86 Nuptse: 22 May Allan left Nuptse area and that day Lowe and Twight were well up Nuptse buttress. Were on their 4th day of their push (had taken 10 days food with them). Lowe now plans to return to KTM 3 June.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449868
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s spur of se smt

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jeff Lowe M 1950 USA Leader Lyons, Colorado Businessman (manufacturing climbing equipment) Details Other expeditions
Marc Francis Twight M 1961 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Alpine guide & photographer Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NUPT86101 AAJ Lowe, Jeff - - 61:230-232 (1987) -
NUPT86101 MM - - - 111:11 (Sep 1986) -
NUPT86101 CLMB Twight, Marc Kiss or Kill - 98:42-46 (Oct 1986) -
NUPT86101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723003/Kangtega-and-Lobuje-East-Ascents-and-Nuptse-Attempt - - -