Nuptse | 1981 SW Buttress-W Ridge (to 6400m)

A Canada expedition to Nuptse in 1981 via SW Buttress-W Ridge (to 6400m), led by Jim Elzinga. Summit reached on 28th September 1981. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1783
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPT81301
Peak ID NUPT
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Buttress-W Ridge (to 6400m)
Route 2 S Face (to 6400m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Canada
Leaders Jim Elzinga
Sponsor Canada Nuptse South Face Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-09-05
Summit Date 1981-09-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 23
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6400m due to lack of food supplies
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/09,5200m),ABC(09/09,5500m),C1(18/09,6100m),xxx(28/09,6400m)
Route Notes Lauchlan - 13 Oct 81 Nuptse 7-member team: We were in striking position when Scots arrived and were very angry Canadians were there. Scots would not agree to joining forces, but were obviously not capable of the climb. Then big storm wiped out supplies. Elzinga and Lauchlan hung around waiting to see if face okay for alpine-style ascent of 1961 route. Started climbing 8th Oct and got 21,000 feet in one day, gave up after losing enthusiasm. No accidents or frostbite. Elzinga arrive KTM in about a week. March (& McNab) - 7 Oct 81 BC 5200m 5 Sept ABC 5500m 9 Sept C1 6100m 18 Sept March, McNab and Congdon arrived KTM today. When got to BC, South Face route not reasonable, too dangerous: fracture lines where ridge hit face and in upper section of face and snow slopes avalanching. Then looked at route up of face and fixed 600 feet of it. Stone fall so bad that would take out ropes after 9:00 am (could safely climb earlier). Knew Scottish team had West Ridge but no sign of them so asked Ministry for permit to SW Buttress to West Ridge. Put 4200 feet fixed rope up buttress. Were almost to point on ridge where would put C2; ministry had said okay if Americans agreed. Scots turned up and said would wait 8 days for ministry clarification and got message not permitted. Enormous rock buttress came down in great storm of lot of wet snow which froze - avalanche arrived 30 Sept: 3/4 mix 1/4 mile: 1 million tons rock with boulders size of Yellow Pagoda dining room. All in BC when it happened. Went back up: nearly all mountain food gone, same personal clothing, all helmets lost from rock slide also bit snow avalanche came down colouir between SW Buttress and rock that came away. Took down equipment on buttress to stockpile it for Everest. Elzinga and Lauchlan may try alpine-style ascent of Britons 1961 route after buying helmets and salvaging enough food. Would be trying about now if Elzinga's wife doesn't deflect them. Baillie left couple days before rock slide and Scots' arrival; saw writing on wall. High point reached 21,000 feet 28 Sept by Lauchlan and Skreslet. Skreslet is in Pheriche now with girlfriend. No accidents. Tremendous amount of rock and ice falling constantly. Buttress quite hard climbing and steep. Excellent approach to West Ridge: safest and fastest approach to Ridge. Scots are on other side of ridge from "suicide gully." All members got along together extremely well. March not sure he will come to Everest in 1982; doesn't like avalanche danger on him. Jim Elzinga (Nuptse leader) - 17 Aug 81 Route will be more direct than that of Britons 1961 and 1975 a) from BC to Brits C4 eliminating 1 Camp b) from Brits' C7 to summit b) will get technical climbing of kind will encounter next year on Everest. All Nuptse members are to come to Everest next year. Leave KTM tomorrow
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448162
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw buttress-w ridge (to 6400m)

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Robert (Rusty) Baillie M 1940 Canada Climber Calgary, Alberta Professor of physical education at University of Calgary Details Other expeditions
Dwayne Congdon M 1956 Canada Climber Seebe, Alberta Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jim Elzinga M 1954 Canada Leader Calgary, Alberta Freelance photographer Details Other expeditions
John Lauchlan M 1954 Canada Climber Seebe, Alberta Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
William Joseph (Bill) March M 1941 Canada Deputy Leader Calgary, Alberta Professor of physical education at University of Calgary Details Other expeditions
David (Dave) McNab M 1955 Canada Climber Seebe, Alberta Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Laurie Skreslet M 1949 Canada Climber Calgary, Alberta Outward Bound (outdoor pursuits) instructor Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NUPT81301 AAJ March, William - - 56:219-220 (1982) -
NUPT81301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198221903/Asia-Nepal-Nuptse-Attempt-by-Canadians - - -