Nuptse | 2022 Khumbu Icefall (diversion)

A France expedition to Nuptse in 2022 via Khumbu Icefall (diversion), led by Marc Batard. Summit reached on 29th April 2022. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10862
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPT22101
Peak ID NUPT
Year 2022
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Khumbu Icefall (diversion)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Marc Batard
Sponsor Marc Batard Nuptse Expedition 2022
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Everest BC trail
Basecamp Date 2022-04-19
Summit Date 2022-04-29
Summit Time -
Summit Days 10
Total Days 21
Termination Date 2022-05-10
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6020 due to various illnesses of Batard
High Point (m) 6020
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 700
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/04,5170m),IC(22/04,5600m),C1(28/04,5920m),xxx(29/04,6020m)
Route Notes Approach: Everest BC trail BC 19/04 5170m at Gorak Shep IC 22/04 5600m close to Pt 5656m of Kielkowski. C1 28/04 5920m HPt 29/04 6020m by Marc and Alan Batard, Pasang Sherpa and Tenji Sherpa. "New route", using French 1984 direct variant to point 6587m, later used also by Dujmovits (1989). Plan for the “new route” was to switch the icefall towards Everest normal route’s Western Cwm. Permits issue: Authorities wanted Batard’s team to take a permit for Nuptse and Everest, knowing the very beginning of the ascent via the “new route” was located on Nuptse’s footstep. Angry to be required to pay for both permits, Batard tried to obtain a permit for Everest as a courtesy for his services to Nepal economy, writing official letters to the Ministers of Finance and Tourism. [This was denied.] Member high points: Marc Batard reached 6020m on 29 April, decided to abandon on the 8 May, left BC on the 10 May. Stephane Massis, Bruno Gardent and Pascal Tournaire arrived at BC at the end of April. Went up as high as to Intermediate Camp, lack of acclimatization. Were members of the filming team. Left BC on 9 May. Alan Batard: to 6020m, left BC on 17 May. Passang Sherpa: to 6020m, left BC on 17 May. Tenji Sherpa to 6020m, left BC on 17 May (son of Passang Sherpa). Schedule of the expedition (by Marc Batard): 20/04: went up to the deposit of last autumn (5300m), with ropes still there. 21/04: Rested in BC. 22/04: Went up to sleep at the Intermediate Camp (IC) at 5600m. Using a variant of the “Nuptse Trikhang” first ascent route by the Swiss in 1956. 23/04: Climbed up to “Sungdare peak” (5880m, christened so by the team, same as Nuptse Trikhang) and back to sleep at the IC. 24/04: Back to BC for rest. 25/04: Rested in BC. 26/04: Visit to the EBC. Marc’s beginning of illness, took some antibiotics. 27/04: Marc, Alan, Passang and Tenji to IC. Marc feeling “correct”. 28/04: Quartet established C1 at 5920m, above the difficulties (above “Sungdare’s peak”). Marc feeling weak. 29.04: Quartet went a little further up to 6020m. Marc, very tired, went back down to BC. 30.04: Rested in BC. 01/05: Marc took helicopter (“not proud of it”) to Namche to consult a doctor. Bronchitis treated with antibiotics; doctor made some physio tests (oxygen saturation perfect). Also got to a dentist. 02/05: Rested in Namche. 03/05: Was joined by journalist Nathalie Lamoureux in Namche. 04/05: Rested in Namche. 05/05: Took the helicopter at 9 am back to BC. 06/05: At BC, Marc still sick, vomiting, insomnia, lost of appetite. 07/05: BC rest. 08/05: Marc decided to abandon the expedition, due to “lack of motivation”. 09/05: Marc, Pascal, French journalist Antoine Chandelier and others went up to Kalapattar, they (Antoine, Nathalie) trying to remotivate Marc to try for the ascent. Batard return to Kathmandu: 10/05: Marc left BC at 7:30 am, reaching Milongo on that day. 11/05: Milongo to Toktok. In the latter, asked to the lodge’s owner about an old path, the owner telling him it wasn’t closed. 12/05: Toktok to Surket (under Lukla). In Surket, asked to a Sherpa if it was possible to use the old path. Sherpa wanted to go with him, but his wife against it. Marc started at 12:30 pm, crossing the gorge via the old trail, losing himself twice, crossing the river via a cable, before reaching Bupsa at 8 pm (4 to 5h officially for that section). 13/05: On the elections day, reached Taksindu to meet a Lama friend, but locals told him the Lama was sick in KTM. In Nuntala, another village, Marc met with some old Sherpa friends who found him a seat in a jeep, which reached Paphlu at 11 pm. 14/05: Obtained via his Nepali friends a plane ticked from Paphlu to KTM. 16/05: Left KTM for France. End of the expedition (by Alan Batard): Alan and Passang went up to C1 to remove it, Alan getting back at the expedition’s high point to remove ice axes and ice screws left there. Passang, Tenji and Saila Sherpa (newly arrived) went up again to Intermediate Camp to remove it. In conclusion: Last autumn’s equipment (which had equipped “Sungdare’s peak”) was further improved this time, with Alan equipping the way down to a breach. The new route is mostly ready, just need to come back doing the short section in traverse giving access to the Western Cwm. If demarches with Nepal ministries don’t find a positive outcome for an Everest permit as a courtesy, Marc thinks he will come back just for Nuptse, finishing the new route’s little missing portion.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalaya Expeditions
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464421
Year 2022
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) khumbu icefall (diversion)

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Marc Marie Bernard Batard M 1951 France Leader La Celle, Allier, France Retired alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alan Batard M 1979 France Climber Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bruno Jacques Gardent M 1956 France Climber La Grave, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Stephan Arnaud Jean Massis M 1970 France Climber - Film-maker Details Other expeditions
Pascal Pierre Tournaire M 1959 France Climber Servoz, Haute-Savoie, France Photographer Details Other expeditions
Fur Tenji Sherpa M 1996 Nepal H-A Worker Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Nuru Sherpa M 1974 Nepal H-A Worker Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.