Nuptse | 2013 N Face

A UK expedition to Nuptse in 2013 via N Face, led by Kenton Cool. Summit reached on 16th May 2013. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8118
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPT13101
Peak ID NUPT
Year 2013
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Kenton Cool
Sponsor Dream Guides Nuptse Expedition 2013
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pangboche
Basecamp Date 2013-04-21
Summit Date 2013-05-16
Summit Time 1030
Summit Days 25
Total Days 31
Termination Date 2013-05-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7864
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Summited Everest on 20 May (EVER-131-61) and Lhotse on 21 May (LHOT-131-06)
Campsites BC(21/04,5350m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(15/05,6800m),Smt(16/05)
Route Notes Cool did not intend to make solo ascents, but his client dropped out before getting to Nepal. Cool just went ahead with the program without him. Cool left C3 at 2:15 am together with Alex Chicon (Txikon) from Spain and the Himex team. Weather was clear with gusts of wind. When Cool and Txikon reached the highest point on the ridge, they were trying to fix about 80m of rope length up to one of the cornices. However, the cornice was full of holes and very dangerous, so they decided to leave it. Cool’s account of his summit day by email - 01/06/2013: "I led out the 80m of rope which is the orange line on the photo; on the back side it was steep snow and I didn't go over all the little peaks rather traversed away from the camera. I fixed the line to a rather poor snowstake, then decided to count to see what was around the snow summit (I couldn't see past it). It seemed that the next bit was higher so I soloed off for 5 minutes of so until I got more than a little scared. I think I got to the flatter area in the photo behind the very obvious spikey summit looking thing in the middle. Like a fool I didn't take any photos (my rucksack was with Alex). In terms of vertical it was maybe (I'm guessing here)..40m higher, the end of the rope which I led out was maybe 25m higher or so.." He spent about 1-1/2 hours on the "summit" (on bottom of the cornice) descended to C3, where he arrived at 3 pm. He had a quick drink before he continued to C2 where he arrived at 5:45 pm the same day. [Note: according to Ralf Dujmovits the true summit is further to the left. It involves traversing underneath the two horns and then joining the ridge left of the horns.]
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Guides
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID EVER13161
Checksum 2459747
Year 2013
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kenton Edward Cool M 1973 UK Leader Quenington, Gloucester, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.