Nuptse | 2012 N Pillar

A Austria expedition to Nuptse in 2012 via N Pillar, led by Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner. Summit reached on 17th May 2012. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7608
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPT12101
Peak ID NUPT
Year 2012
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Pillar
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Sponsor Nuptse East Ridge Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 8th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Germany
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2012-04-18
Summit Date 2012-05-17
Summit Time 1300
Summit Days 29
Total Days 31
Termination Date 2012-05-19
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7864
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Lobuche East and Lhotse to acclimatize
Campsites BC(18/04,5200m),C2(24/04,6400m),Biv1(06/05,6850m),Biv2(16/05,7200m),Smt(17/05)
Route Notes BC at Everest BC C2 in Western Cwm Biv on North Pillar Biv on North Pillar. The Nuptse team's intended route was to approach the mountain from the north and to make a new route by traversing Nuptse's East Ridge from the col between Lhotse and Nuptse westward via two peaks called Nuptse East II and Nuptse East I and finally to Nuptse's main summit. But first, they acclimatized on Lobuche East and spent the night of 16/17 April on its east shoulder with Richie Stihler, a German with whom Dujmovits planned to attempt Everest after Nuptse. They went back to Everest BC, which was their BC. From BC, they went to the bergschrund at the bottom of Nuptse's North Face to have a look at where they planned to go. What they saw was too much rockfall. They concluded their plan to climb up onto the East Ridge to traverse it had to be abandoned. The next day they made another acclimatization climb up Lhotse's West Face to 7100m and on 28 April descended to BC. They decided to substitute an ascent of Nuptse's North Pillar for an attempt on the East Ridge. But Dujmovits had already climbed the pillar in 1996, so he now cancelled his plan to climb Nuptse and went directly to Everest to climb it with Stihler. The remaining two climbers for Nuptse, Kaltenbrunner and Goettler, on 3 May moved from BC up the Western Cwm May and made their ABC for Nuptse at 6400m in the area where Everest teams make their C2. On the following day they went to the base of Nuptse's North Pillar and bivouacked there at 6850m. Early in the morning of the 5th, snow began to fall; instead of starting their climb of the pillar, they picked up all their gear and retreated to ABC. As it continued to snow and there was strong wind and avalanching was a danger, they moved down to BC and stayed there until 14 May, when they were able to return to ABC. On the 15th, they bivouacked again at 6850m. The next day they moved their "camp" which was actually a small tent, to 7250m up on the pillar. At 6:15 am on 17 May, they left their second bivouac and in fine weather climbed the rest of the pillar, which end at the main summit of Nuptse, 7855m high; they were on the top at 1:00 pm. The pillar was mostly covered with snow, but there were some areas of blue ice and exposed rock. They changed leads several times as they went up the pillar; they fixed no rope, but used ice screws. They were back in their second bivouac at 4:30 pm and spent the night there. On the 18th they were down in BC.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459382
Year 2012
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n pillar

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ralf Dujmovits M 1961 Germany Climber Buehl, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
David Johannes Goettler M 1978 Germany Climber Munich, Bavaria, Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner F 1970 Austria Leader Buehl, Baden Wuerttemberg, Germany Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.