Nuptse | 2011 N Face

A USA expedition to Nuptse in 2011 via N Face, led by Michael Horst. Summit reached on 29th May 2011. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7122
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPT11101
Peak ID NUPT
Year 2011
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Michael Horst
Sponsor Three American Guides on Lhotse
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Everest, Lhotse
Basecamp Date 2011-05-20
Summit Date 2011-05-29
Summit Time -
Summit Days 9
Total Days 11
Termination Date 2011-05-31
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7300m due to bad conditions, ice too difficult
High Point (m) 7300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 200
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/05,5350m),C2(24/05,6400m),C3(27/05,6800m),xxx(29/05,7300m)
Route Notes C2 at Everest C2 C3 at top of rock band High point above arete. After having climbed Everest and Lhotse, Madison and Horst hooked up with Max Bunce from IMG to climb Nuptse. The team left Everest BC on 24 May and on 25 May they did a carry to their high camp on Nuptse at 6800m (on top of a rock band below arete), which took them about nine hours return. On 26 May they rested at Everest C2 and on 27 May they left C2 at 3 am and reached their high camp at 7:30 am. They set up camp, and Horst and Bunce started climbing up the arete at 9 am and got to about 7100m. They were fixing V-threads. They got back to camp at about 6 pm. They stayed the night at their camp and rested on 28 May. On 29 May the team left high camp at 3:30 am. It was snowing and had been since the previous evening. The snow had slightly settled on the arete and the climb was harder than expected. It was about 50 degrees and blue bulletproof ice. They got to the top of the arete at about 10:30 am and climbed through the rock band and reached better terrain. Horst was looking for ice he could use for a belay but could not find loose rock and snow, so he decided that it was getting too dangerous and they turned back at noon. They descended to their camp, mainly abseiling. However, they could not find their V-threads due to the new snow and had to fix new anchors to abseil. They reached high camp at 6 pm. While they were in their camp there was an avalanche from above the arete, which luckily did not hit them. They slept for about two hours and left high camp at 11:22 pm to go back to Everest C2, where they arrived at 3:30 am. On 30 May they descended to BC. On 31 May, they left BC and reached Kathmandu on 2 June.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459027
Year 2011
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Maximillien Peter (Max) Bunce M 1977 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
James Michael Horst M 1978 USA Leader Seattle, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Garrett Christian Madison M 1978 USA Climber Bainbridge Island, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.