Nup La Kang | 2018 SW Ridge

A USA expedition to Nup La Kang in 2018 via SW Ridge, led by Garrett Madison. Summit reached on 2nd November 2018. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10123
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPL18301
Peak ID NUPL
Year 2018
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Garrett Madison
Sponsor Madison Mountaineering Nup La Khang Expedition 2018
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Norway
Approach Lukla->BC at Gokyo 5th lake
Basecamp Date 2018-10-28
Summit Date 2018-11-02
Summit Time 1130
Summit Days 5
Total Days 6
Termination Date 2018-11-03
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6861
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 6
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 5
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/19,5000m),ABC(31/10,5848m),Smt(02/11)
Route Notes Approach: Helicopter from KTM to Lukla, trekked to BC at Goyko 5th lake. Helicopter from BC to ABC. BC 28/10 5000m Gokyo 5th lake ABC 31/10 5848m Nup La Pass Smt 02/11 by all members (except LeClaire) and all hired. BC at Gokyo 5th lake. Climbed Gokyo Ri and Ngozumpa Tse for acclimatization. ABC right on the Nup La. Glacier between BC and ABC very broken, a lot of crevasses. “It would take weeks or months to find a way through the glacier”. By helicopter from BC to ABC. Team set off from ABC at 2 am. Everyone summitted between 11:30 am and 12:30 pm. Climbing was on the SW Ridge, between 45° and 60°, on a lot of hard ice, hard snow conditions. They used a lot of ice crews and snow bars. Really nice summit day, very clear, no wind, no clouds. Team stayed on the summit for about 30 minutes, then down to ABC. Reached ABC around 4 pm. Next morning everyone by helicopter to BC. Madison, Bennett, Veres back to KTM by helicopter the same day. Miller, Pattison and Settemsdel stayed in Khumbu to attempt Ama Dablam. Carolyn LeClaire (was on the permit, but decided not to climb during the trek, she just went to Gokyo and left the team there). Team left BC on 03/11. Oxygen: Taken and used by Settemsdel, Miller, Bennett, Veres from 6000m to the summit and down to 6000m. Fixed rope: From ABC to summit (total rope: 1400m / 1000m vertical metres) Other peaks: Miller, Pattison, Settemsdel to attempt Ama Dablam afterwards. Hired: Aang Phurba Sherpa (S) Pasdawa Sherpa (S) Kami Dorjee Sherpa (S) Tashi Sherpa (S) Lakpa Dendi Sherpa (S)
Accidents Bennett frostbite at two fingers (went to Civic Hospital and got treatment; tissues should heal, no lasting damage expected)
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Guides
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463323
Year 2018
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Garrett Christian Madison M 1978 USA Leader Seattle, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Kristin Ann Bennett F 1967 USA Climber Boston, Massachusetts Geoscientist Details Other expeditions
Carolyn Kay LeClaire F 1949 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Motivational speaker Details Other expeditions
Joshua Joseph Miller M 1974 USA Climber Hong Kong Consultant Details Other expeditions
Sidney McCord Pattison M 1982 USA Climbing Guide Winthrop, Washington Skiing & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ingvild Marie Settemsdal F 1983 Norway Climber Sunndalsora, Norway Engineer Details Other expeditions
Ben Veres M 1995 USA Climber Chicago, Illinois Consultant Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1985 Nepal H-A Worker Khembalung, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Kami Dorje (Kamdorji) Sherpa M 1994 Nepal H-A Worker Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Dendi Sherpa M 1988 Nepal H-A Worker Chheskam-2, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Dawa (Pasdawa) Sherpa M 1991 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Tashi Sherpa M 1998 Nepal H-A Worker Sisuwa-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NUPL18301 - - https://madisonmountaineering.com/first-ascent-of-nup-la-khang/ - - -
NUPL18301 - - https://madisonmountaineering.com/dispatches/unclimbed/unclimbedpeak2018/ - - -
NUPL18301 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay Nupla Kang, South Face and Southwest Ridge - 93:322 (2019) -
NUPL18301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215078 - - -