Nup La Kang | 2018 SW Ridge
A USA expedition to Nup La Kang in 2018 via SW Ridge, led by Garrett Madison. Summit reached on 2nd November 2018. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 10123 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | NUPL18301 |
| Peak ID | NUPL |
| Year | 2018 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Garrett Madison |
| Sponsor | Madison Mountaineering Nup La Khang Expedition 2018 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Norway |
| Approach | Lukla->BC at Gokyo 5th lake |
| Basecamp Date | 2018-10-28 |
| Summit Date | 2018-11-02 |
| Summit Time | 1130 |
| Summit Days | 5 |
| Total Days | 6 |
| Termination Date | 2018-11-03 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6861 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 7 |
| Summit Members | 6 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 5 |
| Summit Hired | 5 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(28/19,5000m),ABC(31/10,5848m),Smt(02/11) |
| Route Notes | Approach: Helicopter from KTM to Lukla, trekked to BC at Goyko 5th lake. Helicopter from BC to ABC. BC 28/10 5000m Gokyo 5th lake ABC 31/10 5848m Nup La Pass Smt 02/11 by all members (except LeClaire) and all hired. BC at Gokyo 5th lake. Climbed Gokyo Ri and Ngozumpa Tse for acclimatization. ABC right on the Nup La. Glacier between BC and ABC very broken, a lot of crevasses. “It would take weeks or months to find a way through the glacier”. By helicopter from BC to ABC. Team set off from ABC at 2 am. Everyone summitted between 11:30 am and 12:30 pm. Climbing was on the SW Ridge, between 45° and 60°, on a lot of hard ice, hard snow conditions. They used a lot of ice crews and snow bars. Really nice summit day, very clear, no wind, no clouds. Team stayed on the summit for about 30 minutes, then down to ABC. Reached ABC around 4 pm. Next morning everyone by helicopter to BC. Madison, Bennett, Veres back to KTM by helicopter the same day. Miller, Pattison and Settemsdel stayed in Khumbu to attempt Ama Dablam. Carolyn LeClaire (was on the permit, but decided not to climb during the trek, she just went to Gokyo and left the team there). Team left BC on 03/11. Oxygen: Taken and used by Settemsdel, Miller, Bennett, Veres from 6000m to the summit and down to 6000m. Fixed rope: From ABC to summit (total rope: 1400m / 1000m vertical metres) Other peaks: Miller, Pattison, Settemsdel to attempt Ama Dablam afterwards. Hired: Aang Phurba Sherpa (S) Pasdawa Sherpa (S) Kami Dorjee Sherpa (S) Tashi Sherpa (S) Lakpa Dendi Sherpa (S) |
| Accidents | Bennett frostbite at two fingers (went to Civic Hospital and got treatment; tissues should heal, no lasting damage expected) |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Himalayan Guides |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2463323 |
| Year | 2018 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | sw ridge |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Garrett Christian Madison | M | 1978 | USA | Leader | Seattle, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Kristin Ann Bennett | F | 1967 | USA | Climber | Boston, Massachusetts | Geoscientist | Details Other expeditions |
| Carolyn Kay LeClaire | F | 1949 | USA | Climber | Seattle, Washington | Motivational speaker | Details Other expeditions |
| Joshua Joseph Miller | M | 1974 | USA | Climber | Hong Kong | Consultant | Details Other expeditions |
| Sidney McCord Pattison | M | 1982 | USA | Climbing Guide | Winthrop, Washington | Skiing & alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Ingvild Marie Settemsdal | F | 1983 | Norway | Climber | Sunndalsora, Norway | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Ben Veres | M | 1995 | USA | Climber | Chicago, Illinois | Consultant | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Phurba Sherpa | M | 1985 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Khembalung, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kami Dorje (Kamdorji) Sherpa | M | 1994 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Dendi Sherpa | M | 1988 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Chheskam-2, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Dawa (Pasdawa) Sherpa | M | 1991 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Tashi Sherpa | M | 1998 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Sisuwa-9, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| NUPL18301 | - | - | https://madisonmountaineering.com/first-ascent-of-nup-la-khang/ | - | - | - |
| NUPL18301 | - | - | https://madisonmountaineering.com/dispatches/unclimbed/unclimbedpeak2018/ | - | - | - |
| NUPL18301 | AAJ | Griffin, Lindsay | Nupla Kang, South Face and Southwest Ridge | - | 93:322 (2019) | - |
| NUPL18301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215078 | - | - | - |