Nupche Kang | 2007 W Ridge-W Smt

A USA expedition to Nupche Kang in 2007 via W Ridge-W Smt, led by Dan McCann. Summit reached on 23rd September 2007. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5885
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPK07301
Peak ID NUPK
Year 2007
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge-W Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Dan McCann
Sponsor American Satori Adventures Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Namche Bazar->Thami->Nangpa La BC
Basecamp Date 2007-09-15
Summit Date 2007-09-23
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 8
Total Days 11
Termination Date 2007-09-26
Termination Reason 2
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6540
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Jasemba Goth (6730m)
Campsites BC(15/09,5500m),W Smt(23/09,6540m)
Route Notes BC at 400m west from base of Jasemba Goth (6730m) High point at 6540m West Summit of Friendship Peak [Nupche Kang]. Even though team had permit for Pasang Lhamu Chuli they never really intended to climb it. McCann was on Cho Oyu in autumn 2005 and when he saw Friendship Peak he knew he wanted to ski it one day so that was the real goal (he saw the China-Nepal team on it). On 15 Sept team established BC just below Jasemba Goth. On 16 Sept McCann climbed an unnamed peak (6228m) west of the Nangpa La. He started from BC at 9:30 am and summited at 2 pm. He skied ("skinned") up the lower part of the mountain. The weather was good and skiing conditions perfect. He skied back to BC in 45 minutes. Merrill and Reddish climbed up to 5850m that day and skied down. McCann summited the same peak on 18 Sept, 20 Sept and 21 Sept. Each time he climbed and skied the West Face apart from 21 Sept when he climbed ad skied the East Face together with Reddish. On 19 Sept McCann climbed up the cwm between Jasemba Goth and Friendship Peak. He reached about 6000m and skied down. On 22 Sept McCann climbed West Ridge of Jasemba Goth. He reached 6500m but stopped there as he was exhausted. He had spent about one hour trying to put in an ice screw for self-belay, which was hard work and exhausted him. He had left BC at 6:30 am. There was fresh snow and skiing conditions were fantastic. He reached high point at 9:45 am and skied back to BC in 1 hour and 45 minutes. Reddish and Merrill had a rest day on 22 Sept. On 23 Sept the whole team tackled Friendship Peak. They left BC at 6:30 am. McCann summited at 11 am, Merrill at 3:30 pm. Reddish got to 6050m but turned back as weather was deteriorating. He skied from high point at about 1 am and got to BC at 1:30 am. McCann skied down, however, the first 400m were a complete white-out; visibility was about 4 meters. He got back down to Nangpa La at 11:45 am and waited there for a while and watched Merrill. On 24 Sept McCann climbed another 6136m peak west of BC (opposite Jasemba). He reached about 5900m on the North Face and skied down. Team skied down all the way on all descents. McCann estimated Friendship Peak altitude at 6600m Ohnishi's map says 6676m HMG-Finnish map 6576m. Chinese in 2005 said 6592m.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency World Records Expeditions
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457679
Year 2007
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-w smt

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Daniel Thomas (Dan) McCann M 1961 USA Leader Park City, Utah Carpenter & ski guide Details Other expeditions
Bob Merrill M 1959 USA Climber Park City, Utah Buyer for outdoor activities gear Details Other expeditions
Patrick Reddish M 1959 USA Climber Park City, Utah Cameraman & ski guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NUPK07301 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay - - 82:399 (2008) -
NUPK07301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200839901/Asia-Nepal-Upper-Dolpo-Mahalangur-HimalKhumbu-Section-Jasmaba-Goth-West-Ridge-Attempt - - -