Nuptse East I | 2003 Arete on S Face-Pt 7726 on Smt Ridge

A USA expedition to Nuptse East I in 2003 via Arete on S Face-Pt 7726 on Smt Ridge, led by Fabrizio Zangrilli. Summit reached on 17th October 2003. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4502
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPE03302
Peak ID NUPE
Year 2003
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Arete on S Face-Pt 7726 on Smt Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Fabrizio Zangrilli
Sponsor American Nuptse Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2003-09-20
Summit Date 2003-10-17
Summit Time -
Summit Days 27
Total Days 35
Termination Date 2003-10-25
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6140m due to difficulty of route for one climber and weather turned bad
High Point (m) 6140
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 500
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/09,5200m),xxx(17/10,6140m)
Route Notes BC at 5200m Lhotse Nuptse Glacier east of Chhukung Peak xxx at 6140m at South Face arete. First acclimatized on British (Bonington) route to 6150m on 10 Oct, then down to BC. Started climbing a new route and got to 6140m on 21 Oct. Zangrilli had injured his knee on moraine below acclimatization route on 15 Oct, but still went up new route together with Pierson to 5850m on 15th and down to BC having been trying to find route above. Up on 14th but after walking an hour to bottom of face, Zangrilli realized he needed a couple of days rest. Pierson continued climb fixing rope. On 16th got 6000m and back to BC. 17th fixed to 6140m and back BC. 18th rested. 19th Pierson to top of fixed rope with more gear and BC. 21st Pierson up to 6140m and pulled down all rope because Zangrilli could not go up and route about too difficult for Pierson alone. Route alreay modestly difficult mixed terrain with bare rock and ice covering some of it. Avalanche steepness 60-65 degrees but probably 90 degrees above where he stopped. Both want to come back to this route in spring '04, despite huge serac overhanging route. Weather turned bad on evening of 21st; snow and wind very strong.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456238
Year 2003
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) arete on s face-pt 7726 on smt ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
William Earl (Bill) Pierson M 1957 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Motion picture grip Details Other expeditions
Fabrizio John Zangrilli M 1972 USA Leader Boulder, Colorado Manufacturer of outdoor adventure clothing Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.