Nuptse East I | 2003 Middle pillar on S Face leading to Nuptse East

A Italy expedition to Nuptse East I in 2003 via Middle pillar on S Face leading to Nuptse East, led by Hans Kammerlander. Summit reached on 6th May 2003. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4354
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPE03102
Peak ID NUPE
Year 2003
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Middle pillar on S Face leading to Nuptse East
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Hans Kammerlander
Sponsor Nuptse East Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Chukkung to Lhotse Nup Glacier
Basecamp Date 2003-04-26
Summit Date 2003-05-06
Summit Time -
Summit Days 10
Total Days 25
Termination Date 2003-05-21
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6880m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 6880
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 1100
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/04,5200m),C1(06/05,6880m),xxx(06/05,12,6880m)
Route Notes BC at 5200m at Lhotse Nuptse Glacier C1 at 6880m at junction of Bonington and Babanov pillar. Kammerlander's pillar "very logical pillar" but very hard route; some days only 40-50m at 90 degrees and overhang in places. Team very strong; weather good only 2-3 days with no snow falling and some days very strong winds. Need 3-4 days very nice weather all day. From 6800m up had ice and snow face. Fixed rope from 5400m to 6400m. 6 May reached C1, down to BC 8th May for rest. 12 May to C1 and found only broken tents, so turned around and returned base camp 10:00 pm and no more chance to climb: would have to rebuild camp and refix (first ropes buried in ice) and time over. This route more difficult than Babanov's route. This team first even to attempt this route.
Accidents Oberhofer serious stomach problem and slight cerebral edema and evacuated by chopper
Achievement 1st attempt on this route
Agency Everest Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456074
Year 2003
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) middle pillar on s face leading to nuptse east

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Robert Alpoegger M 1947 Italy Climber Brennero, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Konrad Johan Auer M 1965 Italy Climber Gais, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alois Brugger M 1959 Italy Climber Valle Aurina, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Johann (Hans) Kammerlander M 1956 Italy Leader Campo Tures, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Wilfried Oberhofer M 1961 Italy Climber Brunico, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Hartmann Seeber M 1965 Italy Climber Campo Tures, Bolzano, Italy Cameraman Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NUPE03102 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 78:406-407 (2004) -
NUPE03102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200440602/Asia-Nepal-Malahangur-Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Nuptse-East-I-South-Face-Pre-Monsoon-Attempts - - -