Nuptse East I | 2003 S Pillar-E Smt

A Russia expedition to Nuptse East I in 2003 via S Pillar-E Smt, led by Valeri Babanov. Summit reached on 10th May 2003. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4353
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPE03101
Peak ID NUPE
Year 2003
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Pillar-E Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Valeri Babanov
Sponsor Nuptse South Face Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Kazakhstan
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2003-03-16
Summit Date 2003-05-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 55
Total Days 65
Termination Date 2003-05-20
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7450m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 7450
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 1200
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/03,5200m),Biv(02/04,6200m),Biv(19/04,6700m),Biv(07/05,7100m),Biv(08/05,7300m),Biv(09/05,7400m),xxx(10/05,7450m)
Route Notes BC on 5200m at Lhotse Nup glacier xxx on 7450m pillar. No fixed camps; each day weather permitting went up and fixed rope. When reached 6200-6300m at tower's top, slept here 2nd April and 3rd April, fixed tower and down for few day's rest. Fixed to 6400m and from there climbed alpine style on not such difficult terrain and could do this faster. Slept at 6700m 19 April there 2 stops were for acclimatization. 21 April to BC and down to Dingboche to go down to lower altitude. Returned to BC after few days. Started thus trials to make higher push but snowfall prevented reaching this tent at 6700m three times. Finally got to tent in 15 hour 5 minutes climb from BC despite route mostly fixed. 6 May too windy to move up. 7 May up to 7100m where slept. 8th May to 7300m, slept there (no higher because of wind). 9th May to 7400m. 10 May started but only 50m progress and heavy snowfall and very cold and avalanche danger, so down to 7100m. 11 May very cold and down to BC 8:30 pm. Babanov throat problem down to Pheriche clinic. Again to mountain started up 11 May and got to 5400m and down tired and now was snowfall continuously all day; climb finished: too much snowfall, very tired and no time left to take good rest before resuming attempt. Also Babonov throat problem persisted. Wants to return: now knows the route - hopes to come in Autumn 2003.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Windhorse Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456078
Year 2003
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s pillar-e smt

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Valeri Babanov M 1964 Russia Leader Omsk, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Souviga M 1953 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NUPE03101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 77:396 (2003) -
NUPE03101 HIGH - - - 256:70 (Mar 2004) -
NUPE03101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 78:406-407 (2004) -
NUPE03101 - - http://www.babanov.com - - -
NUPE03101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200440602/Asia-Nepal-Malahangur-Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Nuptse-East-I-South-Face-Pre-Monsoon-Attempts - - -
NUPE03101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200339600/Asia-Nepal-Mahalangur-Himal-Khumbu-Nuptse-East-1-South-Face-Pillar-Attempt - - -