Nuptse East I | 2002 S Pillar-E Smt I
A Russia expedition to Nuptse East I in 2002 via S Pillar-E Smt I, led by Valeri Babanov. Summit reached on 26th October 2002. 1 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 4201 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | NUPE02301 |
| Peak ID | NUPE |
| Year | 2002 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Pillar-E Smt I |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Russia |
| Leaders | Valeri Babanov |
| Sponsor | Nuptse South Face Expedition |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Chhukung village |
| Basecamp Date | 2002-09-19 |
| Summit Date | 2002-10-26 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 37 |
| Total Days | 41 |
| Termination Date | 2002-10-30 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6300m due to fatigue, fierce wind, no more rope left and other commitments |
| High Point (m) | 6300 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 1000 |
| Total Members | 1 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(19/09,5200m),Biv(07/10,5900m),xxx(26/10,6300m) |
| Route Notes | BC at Lhotse Nuptse Glacier Biv on Pillar. Babanov started up 29 Sept, delayed by new snowfall and avalanching. Fixed ropes and down to BC with occasional nights in biv at 5900m. Up and down 10 or more times. Wanted to go to start of very steep section known as "Diable" at 6300m, biv there and then alpine style from there to Nuptse East I. Fixed ropes on some pitches ending at start of Diable. Stopped climb here: no rope to fix 200m more needed on the Diable, had to end climb on 7 Nov because of other commitments, wind very strong and "I was very very tired" having already climbed a total of 1500m but to a several points many times. Would like to return next autumn but with some friend partly to have others help carry up gear this very technical route. |
| Accidents | Nothing |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Windhorse Trekking |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2455881 |
| Year | 2002 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s pillar-e smt i |
Members
1 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Valeri Babanov | M | 1964 | Russia | Leader | Omsk, Russia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| NUPE02301 | HIGH | - | - | - | 252:57-58 (Nov 2003) | - |
| NUPE02301 | - | - | http://www.russianclimb.com/nuptse.html | - | - | - |
| NUPE02301 | - | - | http://www.babanov.com | - | - | - |
| NUPE02301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200339600/Asia-Nepal-Mahalangur-Himal-Khumbu-Nuptse-East-1-South-Face-Pillar-Attempt | - | - | - |