Nuptse East I | 2002 S Face-E Smt I

A USA expedition to Nuptse East I in 2002 via S Face-E Smt I, led by Steve House. Summit reached on 18th May 2002. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4087
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUPE02101
Peak ID NUPE
Year 2002
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-E Smt I
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Steve House
Sponsor International Nuptse South Face 2002
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada, Slovenia
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2002-04-14
Summit Date 2002-05-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 34
Total Days 37
Termination Date 2002-05-21
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7300m due to high winds
High Point (m) 7300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/04,5160m),Biv1(14/05,5900m),Biv2(16/05,6400m),Biv3(17/05,7200m),xxx(18/05,7300m)
Route Notes BC on west side of Lhotse Nuptse Glacier east of Chhukung Peak High point at high reaches of a glacier. After arrival, did acclimatization climbs in area to 6800m on Bonington 1961 route. 15 May Blanchard, House and Prezelj started 3:30 am attempt on their Nuptse route, which had never been attempted before with Nuptse East I as their goal, 7804m high. 15 May steep wall 60-degree avalanche of hard climbing on mostly rock with same snow cover; biv at about 5900m, a pitch below where steepness eased off; 6:00 pm arrive at Biv1. 16th first day that weather was really nice, but made route harder because made snow soft; deep soft snow; 40 degree slope now East Face of Bonington route; biv at 6400m at 6:00 pm, having started at 8:00 am. 17th climbed area of ridge having flattened out to slope 30 degrees; snow better because wind had scoured it; started at 8:00 am and biv at 7200m at 2:00 pm where there was good safe place to put biv without much digging. 18th Blanchard built up a camp while House and Prezelj to scout where to take next and it looked reasonable but cold and windy. Stayed night at 18th Biv hoping to go up on 19th but weather not good (wind, snow and cold) and forecast was not favourable. Could have stayed another day with food and fuel they had, but 19th was a lot worse than 18th, so down to BC on 19th, down their route to Bonington route and down it, it was a more straightforward line. Climb finished.
Accidents Koch injured knee and left about 10 May
Achievement -
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455720
Year 2002
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-e smt i

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Barry Blanchard M 1959 Canada Climber Canmore, Alberta Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Steven Edward (Steve) House M 1970 USA Leader Mazama, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Stephen A. Koch M 1968 USA Climber Jackson, Wyoming Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Marko Prezelj M 1965 Slovenia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia Photographer & alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NUPE02101 HIGH - - - 244:56-57 (Mar 2003) -
NUPE02101 AAJ House, Steve - - 77:388-390 (2003) -
NUPE02101 - House, Steve Beyond the Mountain Patagoia Books, Ventura, CA - -
NUPE02101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200338800/Asia-Nepal-Mahalangur-Himal-Khumbu-Nuptse-South-Pillar-Attempt - - -
NUPE02101 ROCK Blanchard, Barry Nuptse, Coming of Age - 118:74-78+ (Sept 2002) -