Numbur | 1980 NW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Numbur in 1980 via NW Ridge, led by Senkichi Kitaoka. Summit reached on 17th April 1980. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1903
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NUMB80101
Peak ID NUMB
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Senkichi Kitaoka
Sponsor Zao Alpine Club Numbur Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla
Basecamp Date 1980-04-03
Summit Date 1980-04-17
Summit Time -
Summit Days 14
Total Days 16
Termination Date 1980-04-19
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6595m due to difficult knife-edge ridge
High Point (m) 6595
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/04,4700m),C1(07/04,5150m),C2(10/04,6020m),C3(17/04,6595m),xxx(17/04,6595m)
Route Notes Re Japan 1980 Spring attempt on Numbur from north; see my notes on Swiss 1981 autumn Numbur expedition's leader's (Bumann's) discussion of routes 8 Nov 81. Ban & Watatsuma - 28 April 80 No climbing above C3. Beyond C3 knife-edge ridge which very difficult; icefall and crevasse if traversed which very dangerous. This NW Ridge not possible and Sherpa sirdar said more difficult than Everest. C3 reached by Ban, Hirama, Izumikawa, Kayaba and Watatsuma = 5 members 18 April abandoned climb and all descended and arrived KTM 24 April No accident frostbite or illness. Don't know whether SW Ridge is possible. Expedition's camp as follows: BC - 3 April - 4700m C1 - 7 April - 5150m C2 -10 April - 6020m C3 -17 April - 6595m Takashi, et al - 26 March 80 Met LO and Sherpas of 1963 expedition and they say no success. Also no photo from summit, but members claim success. But Oishi met member in Japan and member could give no details so Oishi does not believe him. Route = NW Ridge (new route) Lukla 5 days to BC. NW Lumding Kharka at about 4000m near Tsho Og lake at east end of Lumding Glacier. Route up Glacier and thence of Numbur and up near point 6656m and finally up NW Ridge. Hope leave KTM 27 March and Lukla same day. Reach BC 1 or 2 April 4 camps above BC with highest at about 6500m Most difficult part between C3 and C4 (6000-6500m) and to summit; last part knife ridge. 37 days BC to top to BC; summit 1st week May 4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Ang Phurba No oxygen for climbing
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447632
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yukio Abe M 1946 Japan Climber Shibata, Miyagi, Japan Architect Details Other expeditions
Hidehiko Ban M 1951 Japan Climber Kasukabe, Saitama, Japan Roads engineer working for city government Details Other expeditions
Shoichi Ban M 1947 Japan Climbing Leader Shibata, Miyagi, Japan Motorcar mechanic Details Other expeditions
Ichio Hirama M 1952 Japan Climber Iwanuma, Miyagi, Japan Teacher, motorcar driving Details Other expeditions
Muneo Izumikawa M 1951 Japan Climber Murata, Miyagi, Japan Rocket engineer employed by national government Details Other expeditions
Minoru Kayaba M 1934 Japan Climber Zao, Miyagi, Japan Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Senkichi Kitaoka M 1921 Japan Leader Zao, Miyagi, Japan Businessman (has several small business such as a taxi shop) Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Komuro M 1953 Japan Climber Shiroishi, Miyagi, Japan Salesman in sporting-goods shop Details Other expeditions
Toyomi Oishi M 1938 Japan Climber Omiya, Saitama, Japan Printing company president Details Other expeditions
Kanda Takashi M 1949 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Staff member, Tokyo trekking company Details Other expeditions
Hitoshi Watatsuma M 1948 Japan Climber Shiroishi, Miyagi, Japan Car salesman Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NUMB80101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:256 (1981) -
NUMB80101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125602/Asia-Nepal-Numbur-Attempt - - -