Numbur | 1980 NW Ridge
A Japan expedition to Numbur in 1980 via NW Ridge, led by Senkichi Kitaoka. Summit reached on 17th April 1980. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1903 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | NUMB80101 |
| Peak ID | NUMB |
| Year | 1980 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Senkichi Kitaoka |
| Sponsor | Zao Alpine Club Numbur Expedition |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Lukla |
| Basecamp Date | 1980-04-03 |
| Summit Date | 1980-04-17 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 14 |
| Total Days | 16 |
| Termination Date | 1980-04-19 |
| Termination Reason | 10 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6595m due to difficult knife-edge ridge |
| High Point (m) | 6595 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(03/04,4700m),C1(07/04,5150m),C2(10/04,6020m),C3(17/04,6595m),xxx(17/04,6595m) |
| Route Notes | Re Japan 1980 Spring attempt on Numbur from north; see my notes on Swiss 1981 autumn Numbur expedition's leader's (Bumann's) discussion of routes 8 Nov 81. Ban & Watatsuma - 28 April 80 No climbing above C3. Beyond C3 knife-edge ridge which very difficult; icefall and crevasse if traversed which very dangerous. This NW Ridge not possible and Sherpa sirdar said more difficult than Everest. C3 reached by Ban, Hirama, Izumikawa, Kayaba and Watatsuma = 5 members 18 April abandoned climb and all descended and arrived KTM 24 April No accident frostbite or illness. Don't know whether SW Ridge is possible. Expedition's camp as follows: BC - 3 April - 4700m C1 - 7 April - 5150m C2 -10 April - 6020m C3 -17 April - 6595m Takashi, et al - 26 March 80 Met LO and Sherpas of 1963 expedition and they say no success. Also no photo from summit, but members claim success. But Oishi met member in Japan and member could give no details so Oishi does not believe him. Route = NW Ridge (new route) Lukla 5 days to BC. NW Lumding Kharka at about 4000m near Tsho Og lake at east end of Lumding Glacier. Route up Glacier and thence of Numbur and up near point 6656m and finally up NW Ridge. Hope leave KTM 27 March and Lukla same day. Reach BC 1 or 2 April 4 camps above BC with highest at about 6500m Most difficult part between C3 and C4 (6000-6500m) and to summit; last part knife ridge. 37 days BC to top to BC; summit 1st week May 4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Ang Phurba No oxygen for climbing |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447632 |
| Year | 1980 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | nw ridge |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yukio Abe | M | 1946 | Japan | Climber | Shibata, Miyagi, Japan | Architect | Details Other expeditions |
| Hidehiko Ban | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Kasukabe, Saitama, Japan | Roads engineer working for city government | Details Other expeditions |
| Shoichi Ban | M | 1947 | Japan | Climbing Leader | Shibata, Miyagi, Japan | Motorcar mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
| Ichio Hirama | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Iwanuma, Miyagi, Japan | Teacher, motorcar driving | Details Other expeditions |
| Muneo Izumikawa | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Murata, Miyagi, Japan | Rocket engineer employed by national government | Details Other expeditions |
| Minoru Kayaba | M | 1934 | Japan | Climber | Zao, Miyagi, Japan | Ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Senkichi Kitaoka | M | 1921 | Japan | Leader | Zao, Miyagi, Japan | Businessman (has several small business such as a taxi shop) | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Komuro | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Shiroishi, Miyagi, Japan | Salesman in sporting-goods shop | Details Other expeditions |
| Toyomi Oishi | M | 1938 | Japan | Climber | Omiya, Saitama, Japan | Printing company president | Details Other expeditions |
| Kanda Takashi | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan | Staff member, Tokyo trekking company | Details Other expeditions |
| Hitoshi Watatsuma | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Shiroishi, Miyagi, Japan | Car salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Phurba Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| NUMB80101 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 55:256 (1981) | - |
| NUMB80101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125602/Asia-Nepal-Numbur-Attempt | - | - | - |