Nilgiri South | 1981 SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Nilgiri South in 1981 via SW Ridge, led by Sohei Suzuki. Summit reached on 12th October 1981. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1811
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NILS81301
Peak ID NILS
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Sohei Suzuki
Sponsor Tohan Club Kyudoshin of Tokyo Nilgiri South Peak Expedition 1981
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Mristi Khola
Basecamp Date 1981-09-12
Summit Date 1981-10-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6100m due to Suzuki's accident
High Point (m) 6100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/09,4000m),C1(14/09,4800m),C2(03/10,5600m),C3(11/10,6000m),xxx(12/10,6100m)
Route Notes Suzuki - 27 Oct 81 Suzuki hit back of heal and left forearm by falling rocks and 2 times but now completely healed. Head bled for 2 hours, then stopped and went down alone; other member above and could not support him; was about mid-way up to C2 at 5300m; went down to BC. Accident 12:00, started down 2:00 pm and at BC 4:00 pm, was not wearing helmet, only day not wearing it (thought route so safe), was 15 Oct. BC 12 Sept at 4000m C1 14 Sept at 4800m C2 3 Oct at 5600m after stone C3 11 Oct at 6000m Went about 100m above C3 on 12 Oct by Suzuki and Machida, then needed rest before summit attempt. No plan for C1. 15 Oct Suzuki and Machida were going for summit attempt (Tanaka in BC with alitude sickness) when accident happened. Were to sleep in C2 that night and go to top next day. Fixed rope already in place and 2 climbers moving separately when accident happened. 5:00 pm walkie-talkie contact and Machida hears what happened and next morning went down; "solo climb impossible for him, he is too young." Route was SW Ridge; very difficult knife-edge which cover rest on sitting down and every where loose rock so very difficult to fix rope (one point, 4 pitons necessary). Expedition finished: Machida cannot go up alone, Tanaka sick, Suzuki hurt, Machida's vacation ending and he must return to Japan. Suzuki and Machida could have gone to summit after 1 week if Machida could have stayed longer. No frostbite, no other accidents. No oxygen at all. Tanaka and Suzuki arrived KTM yesterday and Machida yesterday. Sharma, Tourism - 20 Oct 81 Nilgiri South Japan SW Ridge, 3 members, abandoned Made C1 3 Oct 5400m Made C2 12 Oct 6000m 15 Oct 3 members started from BC towards high camps for leader at 5200m 15 Oct injured at 12:30 pm after climbing 1 hour from BC. Injured by rock fall on his head and bled for 1 hour. They went to BC and arrived 16:00 hrs at 4700m after treatment in BC, wound okay but decided to abandon climb. Leave BC very soon. Tanaka - 17 Aug 81 2 arrived yesterday, leader arrived 22 Aug Route = SW Ridge (new route) Caravan to Lete and Mristi Khola to BC south of Nilgiri South Leave for Pokhara 29 or 30 Aug, caravan 12-14 days BC at 4200m south of Pokhara 3 camps above BC C3 6200-6300m = SW Ridge C2 5300 on col between South Pokhara and point 5595m C1 4700m No Sherpas above BC No oxygen at all Most difficult part from C2 to C3 on ridge, rock pinnacles: saw tooth ridge Above C3 crevasses Arrive BC about 12 Sept Summit about 15th Oct
Accidents Suzuki was hit by a rock on the back of his head and on his left foreaem; Tanaka suffered from altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448176
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Mitsuru Machida M 1959 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Staff member, non-teaching Details Other expeditions
Sohei Suzuki M 1948 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Contruction-machine operator Details Other expeditions
Hozumi Tanaka M 1955 Japan Deputy Leader Tokyo, Japan Truck driver Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NILS81301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 56:235 (1982) -
NILS81301 IWA - - - 88:191 (1982) -
NILS81301 IWA - - - 88:56 (1982) -
NILS81301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198223502/Asia-Nepal-Nilgiri-South-Attempt - - -