Nilgiri South | 1981 S Face

A Japan expedition to Nilgiri South in 1981 via S Face, led by Motoo Iwasaki. Summit reached on 11th April 1981. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1838
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NILS81101
Peak ID NILS
Year 1981
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Motoo Iwasaki
Sponsor Nilgiri S. South Face Expedition 1981
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-04-06
Summit Date 1981-04-11
Summit Time -
Summit Days 5
Total Days 19
Termination Date 1981-04-25
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 5740
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/04,4250m),C1(10/04,5100m),xxx(11/04,5740m)
Route Notes Takegawa - 4 May 81 Arrived KTM 2 and 3 May. Route they tried was direct route up dotted line to East Ridge BC = 4250m arrived 6 April. Biv point, C1=5100m on 11 April. 5 members started 4:00 am and 11:00 am at 5700m and deposited some food and equipment. Then 4 members climbed 40m higher but icefall in good condition but very difficult 20m high. At 11:00 very hot sun and all go down. At 3:40 pm are Shimizu hit by avalanche at 5400m and gas down 200m with avalanche but Ok. 12-13 April all members rested in BC 14 April - 4 went again to biv point 15 April 1:00 am 3 went up 300m but very deep soft snow and warm, so down to biv; in afternoon all in BC 15-18 April snowstorm 19 April - 4 up but at biv point depot of food, tent, gas, etc. gone; made snowhole 20 April - again snowfall and they went down to BC 21-22 April - rested in BC 23 April - 4 men went up but bad snow conditions and returned to BC 24 April - BC supplies very low so went to village to bring food 25 April - expedition finished Highest point = 5740m reached 11 April by Shimizu, Takegawa, Abe and Horiuchi (went down same day). Route is really good route. 3 or 4 strong men can climb in 3 days. Takegawa will come again in autumn 1982. No serious illness or frostbite. Yamazaki and Takegawa - 18 March 81 Route = South Face, new route up south side down East Ridge to north side. Approach via Mristi Khola. BC in of "B" of Thulobugin on Harka's map BC at 4300m No camps on face, alpine-style. First Japanese alpine-style climb in Himalayas (but have been in Andes). Descent via East Ridge to north side (autumn 1978 Japanese route) No Sherpas above BC Oxygen medical only Leave KTM 19 March 12-15 days Pokhara/BC, arrive BC 1-2 April. 30 days climbing: 25 for acclimatization and route finding and 5 days actual climb to summit. For acclimatization will climb Sarpong Dhuri (16,424 feet of Kali Gandaki). After Sarpong Dhuri, go to north side Nilgiri South to find descent route and then go to south side to climb. Leave some food on north side in depot, but no personnel.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447992
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Masatoshi Abe M 1956 Japan Climber Washinomiya, Saitama, Japan University student of economics Details Other expeditions
Yoshihiro Horiuchi M 1953 Japan Climber Tokorozawa, Saitama, Japan Cook Details Other expeditions
Motoo Iwasaki M 1945 Japan Leader Yokohama, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Tatsuya Shimizu M 1952 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Shunji Takegawa M 1954 Japan Deputy Leader Zama, Kanagawa, Japan Mountaineering magazine editor Details Other expeditions
Shunichi Yamazaki M 1946 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Editor in book-publishing firm Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NILS81101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 56:235 (1982) -
NILS81101 IWA - - - 88:191 (1982) -
NILS81101 IWA - - - 88:56 (1982) -
NILS81101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198223501/Asia-Nepal-Nilgiri-South-Attempt - - -