Nilgiri South | 1978 E Ridge from N

A Japan expedition to Nilgiri South in 1978 via E Ridge from N, led by Kazuo Mitsui. Summit reached on 10th October 1978. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2148
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NILS78301
Peak ID NILS
Year 1978
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge from N
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kazuo Mitsui
Sponsor Nilgiri South Expedition of Shinshu University, 1978
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Mristi Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1978-09-16
Summit Date 1978-10-10
Summit Time 1415
Summit Days 24
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6839
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 6
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/09,4040m),C1(19/09,4900m),C2(01/10,5470m),C3(08/10,6150m),Smt(10/10)
Route Notes Mitsui - 26 Oct 78 10 Oct very nice day, very clear and little wind. All 6 to top on 10 Oct. 9 Oct route making putting in ropes. C1 to C3 very dangerous icefall. Got onto East Ridge between SE Peak and South Peak near South Peak from north side. All 6 arrive here this evening well but little frostbite. No accidents or serious illness. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 18 Oct 78 All 6 members reached top 10 Oct 14:15 hours. C3 8 Oct- 6150m Expedition finished - all well. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 10 Oct 78 C2 1 Oct - 5470m Mitsui - 24 Aug 78 3 members here now and 3 arrive tomorrow. 1-3 Sept leave KTM. 3-5 Sept leave Pokhara. 12 days to BC via Ghasa and Thulobugin. BC on glacier east of peak at 4200m. Route up snow face to col between South and Central peaks and thence on snow ridge, North Ridge of South Peak to summit - or up ridge on east side of South Peak. C1 under icefall 4900m C2 top icefall on plateau - 5500m C3 col or on plateau on east side 6300m Summit about 15 Oct. No oxygen for climbing or sleeping. 1 sirdar Ang Temba - only Sherpa above BC. Mitsui has taken over leadership since Yamada banned from climbing in Nepal for 5 years after "Nampa" expedition. From Shinshu University. Climbed Jettiborani this spring - "emergency leader." Route up snow face to Col between South and Central peaks and thence on snow ridge. North Ridge of South Peak to summit. C1 under icefall C2 top icefall on plateau C3 col or on plateau - 5500m
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447075
Year 1978
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge from n

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Taichi Fujimatsu M 1950 Japan Deputy Leader Sanada, Nagano, Japan Teacher in Sugadaira middle school Details Other expeditions
Yoshiaki Kato M 1958 Japan Climber Ina, Nagano, Japan Student of agronomy, Shinshu University Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Mitsui M 1951 Japan Leader Nagasaka, Iwate, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Nobuhito Morota M 1954 Japan Climber Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan Medical student (Shinshu University) Details Other expeditions
Seiji Tanaka M 1954 Japan Climber Minami-Minowa, Nagano, Japan Forestry student (Shinshu University) Details Other expeditions
Hideki Yoshida M 1953 Japan Climber Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan Student of Japanese history, Shinshu University Details Other expeditions
Ang Temba Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NILS78301 AAJ Mitsui, Kazuo - - 53:276 (1979) -
NILS78301 IWA - - - 67:146 (1979) -
NILS78301 IWA - - - 67:46 (1979) -
NILS78301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927601/Asia-Nepal-Nilgiri-South - - -