Nilgiri North | 1985 N Face-W Ridge

A Poland expedition to Nilgiri North in 1985 via N Face-W Ridge, led by Zbigniew Mlynarczyk. Summit reached on 19th May 1985. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 172
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NILN85101
Peak ID NILN
Year 1985
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Zbigniew Mlynarczyk
Sponsor Polish Himalaya Expedition Nilgiri N Spring 1985
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries W Germany
Approach Kali Gandaki->Marpha->Timi Gaon
Basecamp Date 1985-04-25
Summit Date 1985-05-19
Summit Time -
Summit Days 24
Total Days 26
Termination Date 1985-05-21
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6400m due to difficult ice, bad weather, lack of food and fixed rope
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/04,3900m),ABC(28/04,5100m),C1(03/05,5600m),Biv1(16/05,5900m),Biv2(17/05,6000m),Biv3(18/05,6300m),xxx(19/05,6400m)
Route Notes BC at 50m lower than French autumn 1981 (less wind and had water) ABC on 1st tower on central ridge of North Face C1 end of ridge where it becomes wall Biv1 at North Face Biv2 at West Ridge Biv3 at West Ridge. No camps above C1 on wall where difficulties began: 50-70 degrees steep and traverse below rock band. Worked 5 days fixing rope on traverse above 5700m. Summit push alpine-style by 3 men attempted on 16 May, but terrible thunderstorm for 8 hours that after and huddled on small platform at 5700m where traverse ended. 17 May went to West Ridge and bived at 6000m. 18 May fixed-rope supply finished but up to 6300m. 19 May went 60m up difficult rock and ice, hard green ice to 6400m in 5 hours. At this rate not possible to go to top and back, so down to 6000m same site for biv. 30 May to C1 very tired and without food. 20 May afternoon bad weather closed in. 21st snow all day so lucky to have traversed before fresh snow. North Face many seracs and very risky to climb it direct to summit. Shrestha, Tourism - 23 May 85 17 May 5900m biv by 3 members 18 May 6250m biv 19 May 7000m biv on N Face right ridge Going towards summit very strong wind and foggy these 3 days and snowfall, so difficult progress; short of food and rope. 2 members in BC.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st Polish attempt
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449495
Year 1985
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-w ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Marek Danielak M 1952 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Radio-electronics technician Details Other expeditions
Jozef Janczy M 1951 Poland Exp Doctor Zakopane, Poland Physician Details Other expeditions
Piotr Konopka M 1959 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Zbigniew Mlynarczyk M 1956 Poland Leader Ostrowsko, Nowy Targ, Poland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pavel Murzyn M 1954 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Engineer, mountain cable car Details Other expeditions
Jan Muskat M 1950 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Sculptor Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Rys M 1957 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Economist & works at a ski lift Details Other expeditions
Julian Szpilka M 1957 Poland Climber Koscielisko, Nowy Sacz, Poland Ethnographer Details Other expeditions
Renate Zoelch F 1958 W Germany Climber Erding, Bavaria, W Germany Student, medical Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NILN85101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 60:246 (1986) -
NILN85101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198624601/Asia-Nepal-Nilgiri-North-Attempt - - -