Nilgiri North | 1985 N Face-W Ridge
A Poland expedition to Nilgiri North in 1985 via N Face-W Ridge, led by Zbigniew Mlynarczyk. Summit reached on 19th May 1985. 9 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 172 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | NILN85101 |
| Peak ID | NILN |
| Year | 1985 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Face-W Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Poland |
| Leaders | Zbigniew Mlynarczyk |
| Sponsor | Polish Himalaya Expedition Nilgiri N Spring 1985 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | W Germany |
| Approach | Kali Gandaki->Marpha->Timi Gaon |
| Basecamp Date | 1985-04-25 |
| Summit Date | 1985-05-19 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 24 |
| Total Days | 26 |
| Termination Date | 1985-05-21 |
| Termination Reason | 5 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6400m due to difficult ice, bad weather, lack of food and fixed rope |
| High Point (m) | 6400 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 1 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(25/04,3900m),ABC(28/04,5100m),C1(03/05,5600m),Biv1(16/05,5900m),Biv2(17/05,6000m),Biv3(18/05,6300m),xxx(19/05,6400m) |
| Route Notes | BC at 50m lower than French autumn 1981 (less wind and had water) ABC on 1st tower on central ridge of North Face C1 end of ridge where it becomes wall Biv1 at North Face Biv2 at West Ridge Biv3 at West Ridge. No camps above C1 on wall where difficulties began: 50-70 degrees steep and traverse below rock band. Worked 5 days fixing rope on traverse above 5700m. Summit push alpine-style by 3 men attempted on 16 May, but terrible thunderstorm for 8 hours that after and huddled on small platform at 5700m where traverse ended. 17 May went to West Ridge and bived at 6000m. 18 May fixed-rope supply finished but up to 6300m. 19 May went 60m up difficult rock and ice, hard green ice to 6400m in 5 hours. At this rate not possible to go to top and back, so down to 6000m same site for biv. 30 May to C1 very tired and without food. 20 May afternoon bad weather closed in. 21st snow all day so lucky to have traversed before fresh snow. North Face many seracs and very risky to climb it direct to summit. Shrestha, Tourism - 23 May 85 17 May 5900m biv by 3 members 18 May 6250m biv 19 May 7000m biv on N Face right ridge Going towards summit very strong wind and foggy these 3 days and snowfall, so difficult progress; short of food and rope. 2 members in BC. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | 1st Polish attempt |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449495 |
| Year | 1985 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n face-w ridge |
Members
9 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Marek Danielak | M | 1952 | Poland | Climber | Zakopane, Poland | Radio-electronics technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jozef Janczy | M | 1951 | Poland | Exp Doctor | Zakopane, Poland | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Piotr Konopka | M | 1959 | Poland | Climber | Zakopane, Poland | Ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Zbigniew Mlynarczyk | M | 1956 | Poland | Leader | Ostrowsko, Nowy Targ, Poland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Pavel Murzyn | M | 1954 | Poland | Climber | Zakopane, Poland | Engineer, mountain cable car | Details Other expeditions |
| Jan Muskat | M | 1950 | Poland | Climber | Zakopane, Poland | Sculptor | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrzej Rys | M | 1957 | Poland | Climber | Zakopane, Poland | Economist & works at a ski lift | Details Other expeditions |
| Julian Szpilka | M | 1957 | Poland | Climber | Koscielisko, Nowy Sacz, Poland | Ethnographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Renate Zoelch | F | 1958 | W Germany | Climber | Erding, Bavaria, W Germany | Student, medical | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| NILN85101 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 60:246 (1986) | - |
| NILN85101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198624601/Asia-Nepal-Nilgiri-North-Attempt | - | - | - |