Nilgiri North | 1981 N Face-W Ridge

A France expedition to Nilgiri North in 1981 via N Face-W Ridge, led by Bernard Moreau. Summit reached on 23rd October 1981. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1787
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NILN81301
Peak ID NILN
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Bernard Moreau
Sponsor French Expedition to Nilgiri North
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-10-11
Summit Date 1981-10-23
Summit Time -
Summit Days 12
Total Days 2
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5900m due to knee deep snow and cold temperature of minus 20 degrees
High Point (m) 5900
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/10,4100m),C(16/10,5600m),xxx(23/10,5900m)
Route Notes Richard Yves & Christian Nuytten - 25 Oct 81 Were on North Face. Did not actually reach West Ridge found some fixed ropes from 19 yrs ago (Lionel Terray expedition, whose altitudes were 200m too high). 5900m high point reached by Moreau and Yves, 4 others 100m below. Arrived BC 11 Oct 4100m C1 16 Oct 5600m High point 23 Oct 5900m (19,350 feet). No more progress: snow above knee a 60% sleeping face and no more time: 7-10 more days. Also very cold (-20 degrees). [?] days above 4000m only; more needed for good acclimatization. 2 here now today via air from Jomsom, 5 after one week. Route to C1 via a ridge, which was safe, then must traverse right (to avoid rocks) to West Ridge. Much more snow than Terray expedition; he had snow only above C1 but now well below. All members Ok; little frosting of toes. No accidents, no avalanches although left of their ridge there was constant avalanching. Yves Richard & Bernard Moreau - 28 Sept 81 Route = North Face to West Ridge (1962 Dutch route, but not completely sure where exactly Dutch went). Leave KTM 29 or 30 Sept by road to Pokhara, then approach via Jomsom to north of mountain. BC about 4500m, arrive 9-10 Oct. 1 or 2 fixed camps; don't know exactly where but probably are on face and one on ridge at 6500m. No Sherpas above BC No oxygen at all Most difficult part of route between 1st and 2nd camp: very steep, will need fixed rope here. Summit 20-25 Oct.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448187
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-w ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yannick Delu M 1953 France Climber Sevres, Hauts-de-Seine, France Computer engineer Details Other expeditions
Richard Lassaigne M 1944 France Climber Paris, France University teacher of mathematics Details Other expeditions
Bernard Moreau M 1945 France Leader Bagneux, Hauts-de-Seine, France Engineer (optics) Details Other expeditions
Francoise Moreau F 1947 France Climber Bagneux, Hauts-de-Seine, France Pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Christian Nuytten M 1945 France Climber Paris, France Computer engineer Details Other expeditions
Anne Catherine Pernot F 1955 France Exp Doctor Paris, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Yves Richard M 1946 France Deputy Leader Paris, France Member of administrative staff of Institut d'Etudes Politique Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NILN81301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 56:234 (1982) -
NILN81301 HJ Moreau, B. French Himalayan Expedition to Nilgiri North, 1981 - 39:169-171 (1981-1982) -
NILN81301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198223403/Asia-Nepal-Nilgiri-North-Attempt - - -
NILN81301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/39/23/expeditions-and-notes-39/ - - -