Nilgiri North | 1981 E Ridge

A Japan expedition to Nilgiri North in 1981 via E Ridge, led by Nobuo Shiraishi. Summit reached on 7th May 1981. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1840
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NILN81101
Peak ID NILN
Year 1981
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Nobuo Shiraishi
Sponsor Fukuoka Glacier Climbers Club of Himalaya Expedition 1981
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-04-05
Summit Date 1981-05-07
Summit Time 1900
Summit Days 32
Total Days 38
Termination Date 1981-05-13
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7061
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/04,3800m),C1(11/04,4850m),C2(14/04,5670m),C3(24/04,6200m),C4(03/05,6350m),C5(04/05,6500m),C6(05/05,6580m),Smt(07/05)
Route Notes Shiraishi & Noda - 23 May 81 Ministry's camps and dates and summit correct except BC=3800m Route = East Ridge (new route) Difficult parts of route were: 1) between C2 and C3: icefall of 100m 2) between C3 and top sharp knife-edge ridge After C3 established, all down for rest at BC for several days. Up again 30th and reached C3 and 2 May (C3 below summit of peak of 6493m east of Nilgiri North) 3 May - down and up to next peak where made temporary camp at 6350m 4 May - again down and to another peak where camped at 6500m 5 May - camp at 6580m 6 May - bad weather; stayed in 5th camp 7 May - to summit of Nilgiri North and bivouac at 6850m in down clothing only. On top 7:00 pm; left C5 at 6:00 am; summiters were Hino and Miyazaki. Little frostbite. No other summit attempt because not enough food and gas for such long route. 4 km from Peak 6493 to Nilgiri North along knife ridge, with hidden crevasse. Shiraishi and Miyazaki - 14 March 81 Approach route to Jomsom and east with BC at 4500m southwest of "Meso" on Harka's map. Climbing route = East Ridge (new route). Over 6500m peak east of Nilgiri North to East Ridge which is then 4 km from this unnamed peak to North Nilgiri. 10 members, all in KTM. 2 arrived 5 March and others 12 March now waitiing baggage. By truck to Pokhara; 10 days Pokhara -> BC 3 camps and 1 attack camp above BC C1 - 5200-5300m C2 - 6200m north side of Peak 6500m C3 - 6300m at col between Peak 6500m and Nilgiri North C4 - 6700m on ridge 2 Sherpas above BC 30-40 days climbing Oxygen medical only Difficulty in length of ridge from Peak 6500m. Ridge is not sharp knife-edge, but South Face is sheer drop.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448018
Year 1981
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Takeshi Hayashida M 1948 Japan Climber Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Etsuro Hino M 1940 Japan Climber Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan Factory engineer Details Other expeditions
Takayoshi Kawada M 1944 Japan Climber Mizumaki, Fukuoka, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Toyofumi Miyazaki M 1950 Japan Climber Haki, Fukuoka, Japan Boilerman Details Other expeditions
Koji Murakami M 1955 Japan Climber Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Tokiyoshi Nakata M 1956 Japan Climber Kanda, Fukuoka, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Taeko Noda F 1941 Japan Climber Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Nobuo Shiraishi M 1942 Japan Leader Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan Shop owner (skiing & mountaineering goods) Details Other expeditions
Kaoru Takao M 1946 Japan Deputy Leader Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan Shop owner (dental equipment) Details Other expeditions
Tateo Yamashita M 1949 Japan Climber Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan Shop owner (food) Details Other expeditions
Ang Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal Climbing Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NILN81101 AAJ Shiraishi, Nobuo - - 56:234 (1982) -
NILN81101 MM - - - 80:12 (Jul 1981) -
NILN81101 JAC Takao, Kaoru Nilgiri North from the East Ridge in 1981 - 77:29-31 (1982) -
NILN81101 JAC Takao, Kaoru Nilgiri North from the East Ridge in 1981 - 77:103-108 (1982) -
NILN81101 IWA - - - 88:191 (1982) -
NILN81101 IWA - - - 88:55 (1982) -
NILN81101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198223402/Asia-Nepal-Nilgiri-North - - -