Nilgiri North | 1981 E Ridge
A Japan expedition to Nilgiri North in 1981 via E Ridge, led by Nobuo Shiraishi. Summit reached on 7th May 1981. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1840 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | NILN81101 |
| Peak ID | NILN |
| Year | 1981 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | E Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Nobuo Shiraishi |
| Sponsor | Fukuoka Glacier Climbers Club of Himalaya Expedition 1981 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 2nd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1981-04-05 |
| Summit Date | 1981-05-07 |
| Summit Time | 1900 |
| Summit Days | 32 |
| Total Days | 38 |
| Termination Date | 1981-05-13 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7061 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 6 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 2 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(05/04,3800m),C1(11/04,4850m),C2(14/04,5670m),C3(24/04,6200m),C4(03/05,6350m),C5(04/05,6500m),C6(05/05,6580m),Smt(07/05) |
| Route Notes | Shiraishi & Noda - 23 May 81 Ministry's camps and dates and summit correct except BC=3800m Route = East Ridge (new route) Difficult parts of route were: 1) between C2 and C3: icefall of 100m 2) between C3 and top sharp knife-edge ridge After C3 established, all down for rest at BC for several days. Up again 30th and reached C3 and 2 May (C3 below summit of peak of 6493m east of Nilgiri North) 3 May - down and up to next peak where made temporary camp at 6350m 4 May - again down and to another peak where camped at 6500m 5 May - camp at 6580m 6 May - bad weather; stayed in 5th camp 7 May - to summit of Nilgiri North and bivouac at 6850m in down clothing only. On top 7:00 pm; left C5 at 6:00 am; summiters were Hino and Miyazaki. Little frostbite. No other summit attempt because not enough food and gas for such long route. 4 km from Peak 6493 to Nilgiri North along knife ridge, with hidden crevasse. Shiraishi and Miyazaki - 14 March 81 Approach route to Jomsom and east with BC at 4500m southwest of "Meso" on Harka's map. Climbing route = East Ridge (new route). Over 6500m peak east of Nilgiri North to East Ridge which is then 4 km from this unnamed peak to North Nilgiri. 10 members, all in KTM. 2 arrived 5 March and others 12 March now waitiing baggage. By truck to Pokhara; 10 days Pokhara -> BC 3 camps and 1 attack camp above BC C1 - 5200-5300m C2 - 6200m north side of Peak 6500m C3 - 6300m at col between Peak 6500m and Nilgiri North C4 - 6700m on ridge 2 Sherpas above BC 30-40 days climbing Oxygen medical only Difficulty in length of ridge from Peak 6500m. Ridge is not sharp knife-edge, but South Face is sheer drop. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2448018 |
| Year | 1981 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | e ridge |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Takeshi Hayashida | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan | Cameraman | Details Other expeditions |
| Etsuro Hino | M | 1940 | Japan | Climber | Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan | Factory engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Takayoshi Kawada | M | 1944 | Japan | Climber | Mizumaki, Fukuoka, Japan | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Toyofumi Miyazaki | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Haki, Fukuoka, Japan | Boilerman | Details Other expeditions |
| Koji Murakami | M | 1955 | Japan | Climber | Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan | Office worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Tokiyoshi Nakata | M | 1956 | Japan | Climber | Kanda, Fukuoka, Japan | Office worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Taeko Noda | F | 1941 | Japan | Climber | Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan | Office worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Nobuo Shiraishi | M | 1942 | Japan | Leader | Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan | Shop owner (skiing & mountaineering goods) | Details Other expeditions |
| Kaoru Takao | M | 1946 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan | Shop owner (dental equipment) | Details Other expeditions |
| Tateo Yamashita | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan | Shop owner (food) | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Pasang Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Climbing Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| NILN81101 | AAJ | Shiraishi, Nobuo | - | - | 56:234 (1982) | - |
| NILN81101 | MM | - | - | - | 80:12 (Jul 1981) | - |
| NILN81101 | JAC | Takao, Kaoru | Nilgiri North from the East Ridge in 1981 | - | 77:29-31 (1982) | - |
| NILN81101 | JAC | Takao, Kaoru | Nilgiri North from the East Ridge in 1981 | - | 77:103-108 (1982) | - |
| NILN81101 | IWA | - | - | - | 88:191 (1982) | - |
| NILN81101 | IWA | - | - | - | 88:55 (1982) | - |
| NILN81101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198223402/Asia-Nepal-Nilgiri-North | - | - | - |