Nilgiri North | 1980 SE Face

A S Korea expedition to Nilgiri North in 1980 via SE Face, led by Oh In-Hwan. Summit reached on 6th October 1980. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1876
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NILN80301
Peak ID NILN
Year 1980
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Oh In-Hwan
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1980-09-27
Summit Date 1980-10-06
Summit Time -
Summit Days 9
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6200m due to difficult rock and shortage of time
High Point (m) 6200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(27/09,4300m),C1(30/09,5000m),C2(03/10,5400m),xxx(06/10,6200m)
Route Notes Oh In-Hwan - 17 Oct 80 South Face: all rock, very difficult, overhang, dangerous C2 on 3 Oct 5400-5500m C3 at 6200m wanted to make but could not. Reached 6200m as highest point on 6 Oct. Stopped climb because have no more time, route very difficult, one member sick and eye affected by altitude. Need more young members and 2 was on or at bottom of mountain. Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 16 Oct 80 Nilgiri North abandoned 10 Oct because of shortage of time - no other information. Only 3 members. C2 established 3 Oct; don't know if C3 pitched. Oh - 8 Sept 80 Arrive KTM 7th. Leave Pokhara 12th Sept, arrive BC 22 Sept. BC = 4300m 3 camps above BC; C3 = 6500m Summit 3 Oct Route = SE Face, same as 1979 Japanese. 2 Sherpas above BC. No oxygen for climbing or sleeping, none at all Last part of mountain is 600-700m steep rock wall. Kim is expert in rock climbing. Team is small: 3 members, so peak Nilgiri N is very challenging.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447804
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
In-Hwan Oh M 1946 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea Office worker Details Other expeditions
So-Sup Kim M 1951 S Korea Climber S Korea Office worker Details Other expeditions
Young-Tae Lee M 1956 S Korea Climber S Korea Office worker Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NILN80301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:265 (1981) -
NILN80301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198126501/Asia-Nepal-Nilgiri-North-Attempt - - -