Nilgiri North | 1979 SE Face

A Japan expedition to Nilgiri North in 1979 via SE Face, led by Kenzo Ishikawa. Summit reached on 29th September 1979. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2103
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NILN79301
Peak ID NILN
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kenzo Ishikawa
Sponsor Seppyo Alpine Club Nilgiri Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Lete->Thulobugin La
Basecamp Date 1979-09-12
Summit Date 1979-09-29
Summit Time -
Summit Days 17
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5900m due to route too dangerous and bad weather
High Point (m) 5900
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/09,4150m),C1(18/09,4700m),C2(27/09,5700m),xxx(29/09,5900m)
Route Notes Takeda - 17 Oct 79 On SE Face Nilgiri North: Above C2 very dangerous glacier. Reached 5900m (highest point) 29 Sept by both members. Sherpas only carrying loads, not route making. C2 at bottom of very different glacier; icefall very broken and dangerous. 30 Sept decided not possible to go up this route; even with more members too dangerous. Takeda - 23 Aug 79 Route = SE Face (new route) Approach from Lete to Thulobugin; to BC on glacier east of Nilgiri. Arrived KTM 21 Aug. Leave 27 Aug and begin caravan 29 Aug with 35-45 porters about 11 days to BC 1 H-A Sherpa Oxygen medical only BC at 4200m; two camps above and maybe biv. C2, want it at 6000m but perhaps not possible that high. Summit 13-15 Oct (35 days climbing).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447430
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kenzo Ishikawa M 1944 Japan Leader Ueda, Nagano, Japan University student Details Other expeditions
Noboyuki Takeda M 1955 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan University student Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NILN79301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:627 (1980) -
NILN79301 IWA - - - 74:155 (1980) -
NILN79301 IWA - - - 74:46 (1980) -
NILN79301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062703/Asia-Nepal-Nilgiri-North-Attempt - - -