Nilgiri North | 1962 N Face-W Ridge

A Netherlands expedition to Nilgiri North in 1962 via N Face-W Ridge, led by C. G. Egeler. Summit reached on 19th October 1962. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2990
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NILN62301
Peak ID NILN
Year 1962
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Netherlands
Leaders C. G. Egeler
Sponsor -
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries France
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1962-10-06
Summit Date 1962-10-19
Summit Time -
Summit Days 13
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7061
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/10,4000m),C1(07/10,5350m),C2(10/10,5850m),C3(18/10,6420m),Smt(19/10)
Route Notes C. G. Egeler, Dutch Expedition 1st Dutch expedition to Himalayas: purpose to (1) geologist research, 5 geologists of university of Amsterdam on co-operative structure with Alpine structures of Europe and to study strategraphy and age and tectanic place of huge granite intrusions; 2) mountain climbers, 2 geologist who also climb. Led by Lionel Terray, French expert who arrives Kathmandu 22 Sept and leaves for Pokhara 24 Sept and from there 26 Sept. Main group arrives 14 Sept - to Pokhara 16 Sept. Will stay together at least to Tukuche and Muktinath. 4 climbers then will survey best way to climb and topographer will work on top map and 2 go parties of 2 mean each off on work. Nilgiri North 7031 meters directly north of Annapurna massif. Chosen the very difficult mountain, never attempted before. Chosen also from geologist point of view and Terray knows area (was with Hertzog Annapurna in 1950). Will have 2 base camps: 1st Tukuche and 1 for mountaineering but where don't know at all until investigate area, probably from north. 10 Sherpas altogether during climbing. Aim to reach summit 1st of Nov or towards end of Oct. Mountain climbers will leave towards end of Nov. Geologist stay still end of Dec. Scientific part financed by Dutch govt. pure research organizaton. Climbing part financed by Royal Geography Society, Royal Netherland Alpines Club, etc plus Phillips (radio apparatus and medicines) and other firms and all members. Deputy leader and Egeler and Terray did much prelims climbing and scientific work in border. Started working towards Nepal goal in 1950. Prof. Dr C. G. Egeler - physics, geology, University of Amsterdam Dr. T. De Booij - staff geological institute of University of Amsterdam 2 physicians will do some physiological work on dehydration at higher altitude; 1 is climber, 1 just expedition doctor. Expedition has 10 members: 5 geologists 4 pure mountain climbers 1 doctor Nilgiri massif has 4 peaks 1. north - 7031 meters 2. central 3. south - 6837 meters 4. southeast Letter from Egeler - Oct 15 (C1 5400m) The progress of one expedition on Nilgiri is favourable. Camp I is established on ridge at an altitude of 5400m. C2 is established. On Friday a beginning was made with the long and difficult traverse through the ice face from C2 to the western ridge. I had hoped that this would be completed on Sunday, Camp 3 being established high on the Western Ridge. On Friday the assault party don't however not quite reach the ridge. I am hoping that today they will have better luck. The assault party consists of Terray and the 3 brothers V Lookeren Campagne is handicapped by a high altitude throat, whereas they self are occupied with the moving of equipment and food up to the high camp. If all would go as I expect the north summit of Nilgiri would be reached within 4 or 5 day. I intend to have a "follow on" for those members that cannot parties - in the first assault if weather permits. Letter from Egeler - 9 October 1962 This is to inform you that things are on the move. Lionel Terray reached our general base at Siang last Thursday. Friday was used for a regrouping or our materials and provisions. On Saturday the members of the climbing party left the valley and established advanced basae on the northern flank of Nilgiri, at an altitude of 4150m. The party includes Terray, the three brothers Van Lookeren Campagne, De Booy and myself, while Dr Tammes has also come up, intending to stay at advanced base. Yesterday Sunday, all the members have advanced to a point at approximately 5400m in the northern flank of the mountain, where C1 will be established. They camped up there, and are now busy making a comfortable place on what one might call a promontoire" of the North Face, from which the actual attack will be launched. Today our 5 Sherpa's have moved up with loads, like yesterday. They will come back tonight and tomorrow will go up once more. Personally I hope to join the others tomorrow in the attack camp. It should be noted that the jump from 4150m to 5400m should not be underestimated, the more so as we are all - with the exception of Terray - not yet fully acclimatized. I was at 5000m yesterday, but suffered considerably it must be old age. Our plan is to proceed from our eagle nest, somewhere in the central part of the face, by means of a traverse, onto the western ridge. Here another camp will be established. In my opinion this traverse constitutes the most difficult part of the climb and especially the very steep part directly below the ridge promises to be particularly nasty. When once on the ridge the going should be fairly good, though the distance to the summit is long and may necessitate a further camp. Charles Dufour (by email) - 29 June 2006 I am able to inform you there were three brothers Van Lookeren Campagne, all three reached the summit of Nilgiri (North). Paul = P.C. Van Lookeren Campagne Peter = P.F.J. Van Lookeren Campagne Holger = H.C. Van Lookeren Campagne
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2441224
Year 1962
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-w ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Cornelis Geoffrey (Kees) Egeler M 1917 Netherlands Leader/Scientist Amsterdam, Netherlands Geologist, University of Amsterdam Details Other expeditions
Paul C. Van Lookeren Campagne M - Netherlands Climber Amsterdam, Netherlands Physician Details Other expeditions
Holger C. Van Lookeren Campagne M - Netherlands Climber Amsterdam, Netherlands Engineer Details Other expeditions
Peter F. J. Van Lookeren Campagne M - Netherlands Climber - Dentist Details Other expeditions
Lionel Terray M 1921 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France - Details Other expeditions
Wangdi Sherpa M 1932 Nepal H-A Worker Manali, India - Details Other expeditions
Tom De Booij M 1924 Netherlands Scientist Baarn, Netherlands Geologist, University of Amsterdam Details Other expeditions
A. Tammes M - Netherlands Exp Doctor Hague, Netherlands Surgeon Details Other expeditions
H. J. Nijhuis M - Netherlands Scientist Amsterdam, Netherlands Geologist, University of Amsterdam Details Other expeditions
G. Schaar M - Netherlands Scientist Wormerveer, Netherlands Geologist/topographer, University of Amsterdam Details Other expeditions
Johan Willem Anne Bodenhausen M 1922 Netherlands Scientist Baarn, Netherlands Geologist, University of Amsterdam Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NILN62301 AAJ Egeler, C. G. - - 37:522-523 (1963) -
NILN62301 HJ Van Lookeren Campagne, P. The Netherlands Himalayan Exp to Central West-Nepal, 1962 - 24:49-52 (1962-63) -
NILN62301 AJ - - - 68:139 (May 1963) -
NILN62301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196352202/Asia-Nepal-Nilgiri - - -
NILN62301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/24/7/the-netherlands-himalayan-expedition-to-central-west-nepal-1962/ - - -
NILN62301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1963_files/AJ%201963%20127-142%20Dangar%20Alpine%20Notes.pdf - - -