Nilgiri North | 2024 W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Nilgiri North in 2024 via W Ridge, led by Takuya Mitoro. Summit reached on 12th October 2024. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11551
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NILN24301
Peak ID NILN
Year 2024
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Takuya Mitoro
Sponsor Japanese Nilgiri West Side Expedition 2024
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Ktm->Jomsom by Jeep, trekking to BC via Tukuche village
Basecamp Date 2024-10-01
Summit Date 2024-10-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 11
Total Days 16
Termination Date 2024-10-17
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned due to one member's illness (AMS?)
High Point (m) 6600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 180
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/10,4000m),ABC(03/10,4600m),Biv1(04/10,5000m),Biv2(10/10.5900m),Biv3(11/10,6200m),xxx(12/10,6600m)
Route Notes Approach: From Kathmandu to Jomson by jeep in two days. Trekked to BC via Tukuche. BC 01/10 4000m, not far from Tukuche village ABC 03/10 4600m Biv1 04/10 5000m in glacial basin Biv2 10/10 5900m on W Ridge Biv3 11/10 6200m on W Ridge HPt 12/10 6600m on W Ridge by both members. Climb abandoned on 12/10 due to Aoki feeling unwell, maybe altitude sickness. Members acclimatized on Thorung La and Thapa Peak. Found old anchor from 1962 first ascent on West Ridge at approximately 6300m. Initial plan was to climb W Face of Nilgiri North, but it looked hard and dangerous, with avalanches and seracs, etc. Instead, they decided to tackle W Ridge. On 04/10 did acclimatization rotation to bivy 1 location. Fixed two pitches of rope below bivy 1 and one pitch above bivy 1. 180m of rope in total. Next day climbed higher to 5200m and directly down to BC. On 06-08/10 rested in BC. On 09/10 went directly up to bivy 1. On 10/10 to bivy 2. On 11/10 to bivy 3. Set off from bivy 3 at 5 am on 12/10. On 12/10 tried to summit, reached highpoint 6600m at 11 am. Aoki felt unwell (possibly altitude sickness). Also, it was getting late, and they were unsure if they could make it safely back to the bivouac after the summit. They decided to retreat. Back to bivy 3 at 5 pm and spent the night there. Next day down to BC. Spent 3 days in BC and thought of having another attempt on the summit. But eventually decided to abandon climb. Left BC on 17/10 to Tukuche for a few days. On 20/10 to Pokhara by jeep and on 21/10 to Ktm. Climbing route: West Ridge Oxygen: Not taken, not used Fixed rope: 180m Other peaks: Thapa Peak (Dhampus Peak) on 26/09.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Adventure
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2465905
Year 2024
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Takuya Mitoro M 1985 Japan Leader Chohu, Tokyo, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Tatsuya Aoki M 1984 Japan Climber Tsukuba, Ibaraki, Japan Climbing gym manager Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NILN24301 - - https://explorersweb.com/aoki-and-mitoro-turn-back-on-nilgiri-north/ - - -