Nilgiri Central | 1979 W Face

A Japan expedition to Nilgiri Central in 1979 via W Face, led by Tsutomu Nishimura. Summit reached on 25th October 1979. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2106
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NILC79301
Peak ID NILC
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Tsutomu Nishimura
Sponsor Himeji Gakuyu Dojin Expedition 1979 to Nilgiri Central Peak
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Sirkur->BC
Basecamp Date 1979-09-28
Summit Date 1979-10-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 27
Total Days 32
Termination Date 1979-10-30
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6000m due to icefall
High Point (m) 6000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/09,3900m),C1(01/10,4250m),C2(15/10,4930m),C3(24/10,5600m),xxx(25/10,<6000m)
Route Notes Kozuki, et al - 11 Nov 79 No C4. High point was little below 6000m on 25 Oct - no higher because icefall and seracs and no way around. Approach route was east from Choya and north of ridge from Pangbu Khola. Climbing route was West Face. High point reached by 8 members: all climbing members except Nishimoto & Nishimura. If came 1 month earlier could have succeeded; then seracs condition better. After 20 Oct icefall had many ice blocks falling. All arrived KTM 5 Nov - leader sick from altitude and went to Japan quickly. No accidents or frostbite. Between 5000 and 5400m overhanging face. Izutsu, Kawasaki & Tsubota - 6 Sept 79 6 members in KTM now; 6 members arrive 23 Sept. 12 (2 BC only) Cargo now in BKK. 3-4 days after arriving KTM, 4 go to Pokhara. Do not wait for other 6. 8 days from Pokhara with 60-80 porters to BC via Pangbu Khola (or Chokhopani Khola) - BC due west of Central Peak at 3900m route = NW Ridge maybe 5 camps above BC: C1 - 4300m C2 - 4800m C3 - 5500m C4 - 6000m C5 - 6500m 4 weeks BC to summit so about end of October 4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Pemba Norbu Oxygen medical only
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447456
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tetsuo Goshima M 1952 Japan Climber Okochi, Hyogo, Japan Textile-factory worker Details Other expeditions
Shinichi Goto M 1949 Japan Climber Kanozaki, Hyogo, Japan Office worker in shipbuilding company Details Other expeditions
Yoshiaki Izutsu M 1950 Japan Climber Aioi-shi, Hyogo, Japan Works in telephone & telegraph office Details Other expeditions
Yoshikazu Kozuki M 1943 Japan Deputy Leader Himeji, Hyogo, Japan Works in office of steel company Details Other expeditions
Kaneyoshi Kuchimoto M 1948 Japan Member Ako, Hyogo, Japan Office worker in shipbuilding company Details Other expeditions
Tatsuo Nishimoto M 1958 Japan Climber Tokasago, Hyogo, Japan Office worker in chemical company Details Other expeditions
Tsutomu Nishimura M 1933 Japan Leader Himeji, Hyogo, Japan Office worker (analytical section) Details Other expeditions
Mitsuhiko Toji M 1949 Japan Climber Yumisaki, Hyogo, Japan Works in telephone & telegraph office Details Other expeditions
Syuzo Tsubota M 1949 Japan Climber Suita, Osaka, Japan Salesman (sells socks) Details Other expeditions
Hijime Kawasaki M 1956 Japan Climber Nishinomiya, Hyogo, Japan University student of commerce Details Other expeditions
Fumio Sakai M 1941 Japan Member Ako, Hyogo, Japan Book shop manager Details Other expeditions
Yoshihiro Segawa M 1944 Japan Climber Himeji, Hyogo, Japan Camera shop manager Details Other expeditions
Pemba Nurbu/Norbu Sherpa M 1949 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NILC79301 AAJ - - - 53:627 (1980) -
NILC79301 HJ Nishimura, Tsutomu Nilgiri Expedition, 1979 - 37:166-168 (1979-80) -
NILC79301 IWA - - - 74:155-156 (1980) -
NILC79301 IWA - - - 74:46-47 (1980) -
NILC79301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062702/Asia-Nepal-Nilgiri-Central-Attempt - - -
NILC79301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/30/expeditions-and-notes-37/ - - -