Nilgiri Central | 1979 SE Ridge-S Ridge

A Japan expedition to Nilgiri Central in 1979 via SE Ridge-S Ridge, led by Masaki Aoki. Summit reached on 4th April 1979. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	2083
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	NILC79101
Peak ID	NILC
Year	1979
Season	1
Host Country	1
Route 1	SE Ridge-S Ridge
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Japan
Leaders	Masaki Aoki
Sponsor	Matsuyama University Expedition to Nilgiri Central Peak
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	1st,2nd
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Chhoya->BC (via helicopter)
Basecamp Date	1979-04-04
Summit Date	1979-04-04
Summit Time	1130
Summit Days	0
Total Days	29
Termination Date	1979-05-03
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	6940
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	3
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	7
Summit Members	5
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	3
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(04/04,4100m),C1(10/04,4780m),C2(20/04,5450m),C3(26/04,6050m),Smt(30/04,01/05)
Route Notes	Aoki - 16 May 79 Route = SE Ridge - few pitches rather difficult above C3 to top of SE Ridge at South Shoulder of Central peak (on ice). South Shoulder = beginning of South Ridge on North-South main ridge. 1st group on top 11:30 am 30 April 2nd group on top 10:30 am 1 May 1st group left C3 and returned same day. 2nd group also started from C3 on 30 April. Moved more slowly because carrying biv tent, sleeping bags and food. Biv that night at about 6500m and on 1 May went to top then biv at about 6200m at 8:00 pm (Aoki got some frostbite during 2nd biv night). Strong wind at summit but not at all at biv sites. No accidents or illness. Sakata - 17 March 79 All members now in KTM (arrived yesterday). When leaving not known because baggage is in Bangkok. Dates of birth: Aoki 5 Nov 34 Hamada 27 Sept 55 Itano 25 May 49 Yuyama 16 Nov 49 Sakata & Tsuda - 10 March 79 2 members arrived 2 March 5 members will come 16 March Leave KTM about 20 March - bus/truck Pokhara. Leave Pokhara 21 March with 60 porters. Caravan 15-20 days. Central Peak, approach via Thulobugin track to khola to West Nilgiri Glacier to south side of SE Ridge to Central Peak's South Ridge. Arrive BC 5-10 April. 4050m = BC on moraine where 2 Nilgiri glaciers meet 4 high camps, C4 at about 6300-6400m 30 days BC to summit = early May on summit 1 sirdar and 2 Sherpas above BC No oxygen from Japan; looking for some for medical use, not climbing or sleeping
Accidents	-
Achievement	-
Agency	-
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	-
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2447252
Year	1979
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	se ridge-s ridge

Members

Field	Value
ID	19375
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	NILC79101
Member ID	01
Peak ID	NILC
Year	1979
Season	1
First Name	Masaki
Last Name	Aoki
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1934
Calculated Age	44
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Leader
Residence	Matsuyama, Shikoku, Japan
Occupation	Assistant professor of French, Matsuyama University
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6940
Summit Date 1	1979-05-01
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1030
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	2
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2425631
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	masaki aoki
Year of Birth	1934
Year	1979
Age at Expedition	45
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	19376
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	NILC79101
Member ID	02
Peak ID	NILC
Year	1979
Season	1
First Name	Toshiro
Last Name	Hamada
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1955
Calculated Age	23
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Matsuyama, Shikoku, Japan
Occupation	Sociology student at Matsuyama University
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6940
Summit Date 1	1979-05-01
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1030
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	2
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2433241
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	toshiro hamada
Year of Birth	1955
Year	1979
Age at Expedition	24
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	19377
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	NILC79101
Member ID	03
Peak ID	NILC
Year	1979
Season	1
First Name	Toru
Last Name	Itano
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1949
Calculated Age	29
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Exp Doctor
Residence	Matsuyama, Shikoku, Japan
Occupation	Physician on staff of National Hospital
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2430971
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	toru itano
Year of Birth	1949
Year	1979
Age at Expedition	30
Role	BC Only

Field	Value
ID	19378
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	NILC79101
Member ID	04
Peak ID	NILC
Year	1979
Season	1
First Name	Kohichi
Last Name	Sakata
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1951
Calculated Age	28
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Matsuyama, Shikoku, Japan
Occupation	Works in mountain hut on mountain Ishizuchi
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6940
Summit Date 1	1979-04-30
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1130
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	1
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2431554
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	kohichi sakata
Year of Birth	1951
Year	1979
Age at Expedition	28
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	19379
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	NILC79101
Member ID	06
Peak ID	NILC
Year	1979
Season	1
First Name	Yasuo
Last Name	Tsuda
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1957
Calculated Age	22
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Matsuyama, Shikoku, Japan
Occupation	Economics student (Matsuyama University)
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6940
Summit Date 1	1979-04-30
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1130
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	1
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2433766
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	yasuo tsuda
Year of Birth	1957
Year	1979
Age at Expedition	22
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	19380
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	NILC79101
Member ID	07
Peak ID	NILC
Year	1979
Season	1
First Name	Junichi
Last Name	Yuyama
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1949
Calculated Age	29
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Matsuyama, Shikoku, Japan
Occupation	Office worker
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6940
Summit Date 1	1979-05-01
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1030
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	2
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2431106
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	junichi yuyama
Year of Birth	1949
Year	1979
Age at Expedition	30
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	41670
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	NILC79101
Member ID	05
Peak ID	NILC
Year	1979
Season	1
First Name	Keizo
Last Name	Shigematsu
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	37
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Member
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	True
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	-142
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	keizo shigematsu
Year of Birth	-
Year	1979
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Member

7 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Masaki Aoki	M	1934	Japan	Leader	Matsuyama, Shikoku, Japan	Assistant professor of French, Matsuyama University	Details Other expeditions
Toshiro Hamada	M	1955	Japan	Climber	Matsuyama, Shikoku, Japan	Sociology student at Matsuyama University	Details Other expeditions
Toru Itano	M	1949	Japan	Exp Doctor	Matsuyama, Shikoku, Japan	Physician on staff of National Hospital	Details Other expeditions
Kohichi Sakata	M	1951	Japan	Climber	Matsuyama, Shikoku, Japan	Works in mountain hut on mountain Ishizuchi	Details Other expeditions
Yasuo Tsuda	M	1957	Japan	Climber	Matsuyama, Shikoku, Japan	Economics student (Matsuyama University)	Details Other expeditions
Junichi Yuyama	M	1949	Japan	Climber	Matsuyama, Shikoku, Japan	Office worker	Details Other expeditions
Keizo Shigematsu	M	-	Japan	Member	-	-	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	1523
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	NILC79101
Reference ID	01
Year	1979
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Aoki, Masaki
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1980
Language	-
Citation	53:627 (1980)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	1664
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	NILC79101
Reference ID	02
Year	1979
Type	2
Journal	JAC
Author	Aoki, Masaki
Title	Nilgiri Central 1979
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1980
Language	English
Citation	75:12-14 (1980)
Yak 94	-
Notes	Route maps and photos in English included in Japanese section

Field	Value
ID	6013
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	NILC79101
Reference ID	03
Year	1979
Type	2
Journal	JAC
Author	Aoki, Masaki
Title	Nilgiri Central 1979
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1980
Language	Japanese
Citation	75:139-146 (1980)
Yak 94	-
Notes	Includes route maps and photos in English

Field	Value
ID	6604
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	NILC79101
Reference ID	04
Year	1979
Type	3
Journal	IWA
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1980
Language	Japanese w/English summary
Citation	74:155 (1980)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	7001
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	NILC79101
Reference ID	05
Year	1979
Type	3
Journal	IWA
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1980
Language	Japanese
Citation	74:46 (1980)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	12981
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	NILC79101
Reference ID	06
Year	1979
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062701/Asia-Nepal-Nilgiri-Central
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
NILC79101	AAJ	Aoki, Masaki	-	-	53:627 (1980)	-
NILC79101	JAC	Aoki, Masaki	Nilgiri Central 1979	-	75:12-14 (1980)	-
NILC79101	JAC	Aoki, Masaki	Nilgiri Central 1979	-	75:139-146 (1980)	-
NILC79101	IWA	-	-	-	74:155 (1980)	-
NILC79101	IWA	-	-	-	74:46 (1980)	-
NILC79101	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062701/Asia-Nepal-Nilgiri-Central	-	-	-