Ngojumba Kang I | 1982 S Face

A S Korea expedition to Ngojumba Kang I in 1982 via S Face, led by Park Dong-Gyu. Summit reached on 2nd November 1982. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2043
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NGOJ82302
Peak ID NGOJ
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Park Dong-Gyu
Sponsor 1982 Postmonsoon Season Korea-Nepal Joint Exp to Ngojumba Kang
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Gokyo Valley
Basecamp Date 1982-09-26
Summit Date 1982-11-02
Summit Time 1730
Summit Days 37
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7916
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/09,5200m),C1(05/10,5700m),C2(16/10,6450m),C3(27/10,7000m),C4(31/10,7260m),Smt(02/11)
Route Notes Kim Young-Han - 19 Nov 82 Planned route very difficult and dangerous. BC was at 5200m, established 26 Sept on Lungsamba Glacier. Above BC avalanche from Cho Oyu side very dangerous and covered glacier so could not move above BC on planned route but shifted close to original printed route plan C1 - 5700m Oct 5 C2 - 6450m Oct 16 C3 - 7000m Oct 27 C4 - 7260m Oct 31 From C4 to top blue ice covered by new snow, very steep, all front-pointing C2-C3 3 days heavy snowfall continually (here big crevasses) C1 to C3 time spent searching good route Summit Nov 2 by 2 Sherpas and 1 member as reported by ministry Again bad weather after Nov 2 so no more attempts due to snowfall and wind Fixed rope used 5000m on all route except only 1/2 C1 to C2; BC to C1 all way; C4 to top 400m. French Belgium did not succeed because not enough equipment including rope and not enough food. Between C1 and C2 was hanging glacier and worried about this but not other route. No accidents or frostbite No oxygen used 10 Sherpas above BC This definitely 1st ascent of main summit. Japanese themselves recognise climb 20 years ago was of Ngojumba II (Ngojumba Central). Most difficult climb Kim has ever done; he reached summit 1/2 hour after 2 Sherpas because has a "disease" that prevents his moving fast. Sharma, Tourism - 9 Nov 82 Korean-Nepal Ngojumba - east side 2 Nov Ang Tshering Sherpa (25) and Dorje Sherpa (25) reached summit 17:30; 18:00 Kim Young-Han. No further attempts BC 3 Oct 5200m. Chapelle, Belgium - 26 Oct 82 When left BC 17 Oct Koreans were at perhaps 6800m below C2 west of French-Belgians. Kim - 14 Oct 82 Last 2 members leave KTM in next four days, many RNAC charter cancellations. 9 members are now on mountain and making route to C3. Kim - 26 Sept 82 Baggage arrives Birgunj today. Flights to Lukla on 30 Sept to 2 Oct; some members on 30th flight, same (including Kim) on 2nd. Park, Kim - 29 Aug 82 Korean route is on South Face to point on ridge west of Ngojumba I BC at 5200m or Lungsampa Glacier 4 or 5 camps above; with shortage of time may make only 4 with C2 still on face. All members arrive BC 5 Oct Summit after 40 days climbing - must have extension from HMG Ngojumba face very steep (60-65 degrees), 7000m fixed rope Pemba Tshering = Nepalese leader (was on Spain Everest expedition) 3 Nepal members = Sherpas 8 high altitude Sherpas Medical oxygen only Advance party leave KTM 3 or 4 Sept, rest about 15 Sept; baggage still at sea.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448518
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Soon-Hyoung Hong M 1938 S Korea Climber Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Salesman for electrical company Details Other expeditions
Tae-Seok Kim M 1955 S Korea Climber Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Owner of trucking company Details Other expeditions
Young-Han Kim M 1947 S Korea Climbing Leader Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Young-Hwan Kim M 1959 S Korea Climber Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Has just left the army Details Other expeditions
Heup-Woo Lee M 1956 S Korea Climber Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Manager of mountaineering equipment shop Details Other expeditions
Sam-Gyun Lim M 1958 S Korea Climber Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Machine technician Details Other expeditions
Chan-Bok Park M 1955 S Korea Climber Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Machine engineer Details Other expeditions
Dong-Gyu Park M 1941 S Korea Leader Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Staff member, Taejon Cultural Center Details Other expeditions
Jeong-Du Seo M 1956 S Korea Climber Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Mountaineering equipment shop employee Details Other expeditions
Haw-Seok Yang M 1949 S Korea Climber Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Shopkeeper (leather goods) Details Other expeditions
Deong-Jung Yoon M 1953 S Korea Exp Doctor Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Resident doctor at Chung Nam University Medical Center Details Other expeditions
Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker/Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker/Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker/Co-Leader - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NGOJ82302 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 57:232 (1983) -
NGOJ82302 MM - - - 89:12 (Jan 1983) -
NGOJ82302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198323202/Asia-Nepal-Ngozumba-Kang-Attempt - - -