Ngojumba Kang II | 1987 S Face-S Ridge

A Yugoslavia expedition to Ngojumba Kang II in 1987 via S Face-S Ridge, led by Darko Berljak, Branko Separovic. Summit reached on 11th November 1987. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 313
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NGO287301
Peak ID NGO2
Year 1987
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Darko Berljak, Branko Separovic
Sponsor Zagreb Mountaineering Expedition Ngojumba Kang
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd,3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Gokyo
Basecamp Date 1987-10-08
Summit Date 1987-11-11
Summit Time -
Summit Days 34
Total Days 36
Termination Date 1987-11-13
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7743
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08-15/10,5300m),ABC(17/10,5350m),C1(27/10,5950m),C2(03/11,6450m),C3(07/11,6750m),C4(10/11,7260m),Smt(11,13/11)
Route Notes BC west side of Lungsampa Glacier, north of a lake and SE of point 5360m on Schneider map ABC north of point 5420m, east of point 6088m, southwest point 5695m C1 at plateau just NE of point 6073m and slightly lower C2 east of point 6515m C3 just below S Ridge of Ngojumba Kang II C4 on South Ridge. Route from BC led into Ngojumba Glacier. Ridge is 45-50 degrees steepness and real snow climbing with problem of wind. More technical problems between ABC and C2: rock 350m face above ABC which needed fixing rope and above C1 had abseil down from plateau to glacier couloir. Had thought to try to go to Ngojumba C3 on 13th Nov because of strong wind (Alikalfic was blown over twice on S Ridge). Route to C3 from C2 looked easy snow flank, quite broad. Berljak left expedition early. He was organizer of expedition, is able to get funds, but now-a-days doesn't climb.
Accidents Only slight frostbite
Achievement New route; 1st autumn ascent
Agency Everest Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450358
Year 1987
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-s ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Edin Alikalfic M 1959 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Mathematical engineer Details Other expeditions
Zdenko Anic M 1951 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Mario Bago M 1953 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Clerk Details Other expeditions
Darko Berljak M 1950 Yugoslavia Leader Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Economist in chemical industry Details Other expeditions
Nives Borsic F 1962 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Student, mathematics Details Other expeditions
Davor Butkovic M 1954 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Businessman Details Other expeditions
Zeljko Gobec M 1940 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Officer (Zagreb Alpine Club) Details Other expeditions
Jerko Kirigin M 1942 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Physicist, engineerng Details Other expeditions
Boris Kovacevic M 1959 Yugoslavia Climber Sarajevo, Bosnia, Yugoslavia Student Details Other expeditions
Branko Ognancevic M 1948 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Branko Puzak M 1956 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Geography student Details Other expeditions
Mario Rodes M 1963 Yugoslavia Climber Varazdin, Croatia, Yugoslavia Student Details Other expeditions
Branko Separovic M 1947 Yugoslavia Climbing Leader Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NGO287301 AAJ Berljak, Darko - - 62:207-209 (1988) -
NGO287301 MM - - - 120:10 (Mar 1988) -
NGO287301 - Berljak, Darko Dodiri Neba Hrvatski Planinarski Savez, Zagrab - -
NGO287301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198820704/Asia-Nepal-Ngojumba-Kang-II - - -