Ngojumba Kang II | 1987 S Face-S Ridge
A Yugoslavia expedition to Ngojumba Kang II in 1987 via S Face-S Ridge, led by Darko Berljak, Branko Separovic. Summit reached on 11th November 1987. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 313 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | NGO287301 |
| Peak ID | NGO2 |
| Year | 1987 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Face-S Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Yugoslavia |
| Leaders | Darko Berljak, Branko Separovic |
| Sponsor | Zagreb Mountaineering Expedition Ngojumba Kang |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 2nd,3rd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Gokyo |
| Basecamp Date | 1987-10-08 |
| Summit Date | 1987-11-11 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 34 |
| Total Days | 36 |
| Termination Date | 1987-11-13 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7743 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 13 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 2 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(08-15/10,5300m),ABC(17/10,5350m),C1(27/10,5950m),C2(03/11,6450m),C3(07/11,6750m),C4(10/11,7260m),Smt(11,13/11) |
| Route Notes | BC west side of Lungsampa Glacier, north of a lake and SE of point 5360m on Schneider map ABC north of point 5420m, east of point 6088m, southwest point 5695m C1 at plateau just NE of point 6073m and slightly lower C2 east of point 6515m C3 just below S Ridge of Ngojumba Kang II C4 on South Ridge. Route from BC led into Ngojumba Glacier. Ridge is 45-50 degrees steepness and real snow climbing with problem of wind. More technical problems between ABC and C2: rock 350m face above ABC which needed fixing rope and above C1 had abseil down from plateau to glacier couloir. Had thought to try to go to Ngojumba C3 on 13th Nov because of strong wind (Alikalfic was blown over twice on S Ridge). Route to C3 from C2 looked easy snow flank, quite broad. Berljak left expedition early. He was organizer of expedition, is able to get funds, but now-a-days doesn't climb. |
| Accidents | Only slight frostbite |
| Achievement | New route; 1st autumn ascent |
| Agency | Everest Trekking |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450358 |
| Year | 1987 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s face-s ridge |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Edin Alikalfic | M | 1959 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Mathematical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Zdenko Anic | M | 1951 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Mario Bago | M | 1953 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Clerk | Details Other expeditions |
| Darko Berljak | M | 1950 | Yugoslavia | Leader | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Economist in chemical industry | Details Other expeditions |
| Nives Borsic | F | 1962 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Student, mathematics | Details Other expeditions |
| Davor Butkovic | M | 1954 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Zeljko Gobec | M | 1940 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Officer (Zagreb Alpine Club) | Details Other expeditions |
| Jerko Kirigin | M | 1942 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Physicist, engineerng | Details Other expeditions |
| Boris Kovacevic | M | 1959 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Sarajevo, Bosnia, Yugoslavia | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Branko Ognancevic | M | 1948 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
| Branko Puzak | M | 1956 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Geography student | Details Other expeditions |
| Mario Rodes | M | 1963 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Varazdin, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Branko Separovic | M | 1947 | Yugoslavia | Climbing Leader | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| NGO287301 | AAJ | Berljak, Darko | - | - | 62:207-209 (1988) | - |
| NGO287301 | MM | - | - | - | 120:10 (Mar 1988) | - |
| NGO287301 | - | Berljak, Darko | Dodiri Neba | Hrvatski Planinarski Savez, Zagrab | - | - |
| NGO287301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198820704/Asia-Nepal-Ngojumba-Kang-II | - | - | - |