Ngojumba Kang II | 1965 S Face-S Ridge

A Japan expedition to Ngojumba Kang II in 1965 via S Face-S Ridge, led by Susumu Takahashi. Summit reached on 24th April 1965. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2987
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NGO265101
Peak ID NGO2
Year 1965
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Susumu Takahashi
Sponsor Nepal Himalayan Academic Expedition of Meiji University
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Namche->Gokyo
Basecamp Date 1965-03-22
Summit Date 1965-04-24
Summit Time 1704
Summit Days 33
Total Days 37
Termination Date 1965-04-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7743
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/03,5000m),C1(04/04,5700m),C2(10/04,6000m),C3(18/04,6500m),C4(22/04,6900m),Smt(24/04)
Route Notes Uemura - 30 May 65 From C4 (highest) to summit hardest part of climb: crevasse halfway (at 7400m) to summit. Crevasse about 10m with another crevasse inside it (10m deep traversing face of mountain). Had go down inside and climb up other side; then 60m high icefall needing 30m ropes and 10 pitons and when came back from top surprised how difficult to reach C4. Night came and had to stay in crevasse all night at summit 5 pm; reached crevasse 7:30 pm. Next day C4 9 am (started 5:30 am at crevasse and after 1 hour meet support party below crevasse). Kobayashi - 28 May 65 Rest of Meiji expedition will probably arrive KTM 30th. Uemura and Pemba Tenzing Sherpa on April 23 on summit. Most difficult from base 5000m to C1 5500m and most dangerous; icewall 50m height with loose blocks. Accident March 29 to Masaru Irisawa; knocked unconscious by huge falling ice block slab on head and brought down to base; left side paralyzed one month with gradual recovery. Doctor stayed with him at base. Now all right, but did no more climbing; now walking back to Kathmandu all right. April 7 accident to Sherpa involved no members; again ice block fell between C1 and C2. Took 2 weeks establish C1 because of accident. Icewall again between C2 and C3; really icewalls all way from base to C3 (altitude 6400-6500m). From Varma - 29 April 65 (message from Doctor) Attempt to C3 recon party 3 Sherpas: snow and small avalanche in which 1 Sherpa fell and injured his back. Sherpa brought here day before yesterday from Jiri by Swiss; accident apparently occurred April 7th. C4 will be last camp: hoped reach summit by 25th. 29 April 65 Dorchi Sherpa (28) collarbone fractured and backbone slightly injured; caught in avalanche on April 7th. Took 9 days to reach Jiri from base. Expedition hoped reach summit 25th. All Ok otherwise. At Shanta Bhavan convalescent ward now where Mahesh Banskota saw him. Ngojumba Kang II 1st ascent on 24 April: Naomi Uemura, Pemba Tenzing Sherpa.
Accidents -
Achievement Originally claimed ascent of Ngojumba Kang, but later realized they had climbed Ngojumba Kang II
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2442100
Year 1965
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-s ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Susumi Takahashi M - Japan Leader Daitoku, Tokyo, Japan Director, Japan Alpine Club Details Other expeditions
Yoshihiro Fujita M - Japan Deputy Leader Sudachioya, Tokyo, Japan Member, Acheological Museum of Meiji University Details Other expeditions
Shinichi Hirano M 1938 Japan Climber Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo, Japan Member, Cultural Scientific Institute of Meiji University Details Other expeditions
Takeo Odaka M - Japan Climber Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, Japan Staff member, Nikken Kagaku Co. Details Other expeditions
Masahisa Kobayashi M - Japan Climber Kita-ku, Tokyo, Japan Student, Meiji University (Geography) Details Other expeditions
Yoshio Nagao M 1929 Japan Exp Doctor Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Physician, Jikeikai University, School of Medicine Details Other expeditions
Naomi Uemura M 1941 Japan Climber Kinosaki-gun, Hyogo, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Masaru Irisawa M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Dawa Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions
Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NGO265101 AAJ Yoshizawa, Ichiro - - 40:190 (1966) -
NGO265101 JAC Takahashi, Susumu Ngojumba Kang, 1965 - 61:11-13 (1966) -
NGO265101 JAC Takahashi, Susumu Ngojumba Kang, 1965 - 61:31-46 (1966) -
NGO265101 - Takahashi, Susumu The Ascent of Ngojumba Kang Meikei-do, Tokyo - jT17
NGO265101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196619001/Asia-Nepal-Ngojumba-Ri - - -