Ngojumba Kang II | 2002 N Face of Ngojumba Kang

A USA expedition to Ngojumba Kang II in 2002 via N Face of Ngojumba Kang, led by Michael Bearzi. Summit reached on 9th May 2002. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4064
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NGO202101
Peak ID NGO2
Year 2002
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face of Ngojumba Kang
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Michael Bearzi
Sponsor The Secret Face of Gyachung Kang
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Ev BC->Rongbuk Glacier->back to Ev BC->Gyachung Glacier
Basecamp Date 2002-04-20
Summit Date 2002-05-09
Summit Time 1730
Summit Days 19
Total Days 27
Termination Date 2002-05-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes Success on Ngojumba Kang II, then abandoned due to Bearzi's fatal fall
High Point (m) 7743
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Intended to climb Gyachung Kang
Campsites BC(20/04,5700m),ABC(02/05,6400m),Smt(09/05)
Route Notes BC at 5700m on sided Glacier ABC at 6400m near pass High point at 7646m at summit of Ngozumba Kang II. After arriving BC, Bearzi had sinus infection, so Miller climbed two peaks (6150m and 6171m). Bearzi now intestinal problems from antibiotics, so both down to Everest BC to see a doctor. Got well and back to BC on 30 April. Made camp at Gyachung Kang - Rangto La. 3 May climbed nearby peaks point 6600m and Jiuda Ri. 4 May down to BC and rested on 5 and 6 May. 7 May went to acclimatize by climbing 6900m on Ngojumba Kang II. 8 May went up to 6900m and biv there. 9 May to summit of Ngojumba Kang II. Mike slowing down at end of day. Miller and Bearzi at about 5:30 pm turned down. At 7:00 pm Miller could see this biv from 7000m and then Bearzi, behind Miller fell on steep section and couldn't self-arrest and was bouncing off rocks, cart-wheeling and down very steep section of snow covered rocks. Total fall 600m to glacier. Difficult to descend by Miller, west to 100m below biv in dark and up to biv for night, not knowing what had happened to Bearzi but felt he must be dead. 10 May Miller down to ABC and slept there. At base of mountain could see Bearzi's body on glacier west of their route but did not go to it but concerned about his own safety over difficult terrain they had roped up on. Long day to ABC. Rested 11 May when tired. 12 May to Everest BC. Left Everest BC 17 May and returned to KTM 19th. 45-55 degree snow ice slope on route with a few pitches up to 70 degrees slope.
Accidents Bearzi illness and then fatal fall
Achievement -
Agency Explore Himalaya
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455666
Year 2002
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face of ngojumba kang

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michael Anthony (Mike) Bearzi M 1953 USA Leader Boulder, Colorado Carpenter/contractor Details Other expeditions
Bruce Miller M 1963 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Carpenter Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NGO202101 ALP Miller, Bruce In Memoriam, Mike Bearzi - 1:94 (Winter 2002-2003) -
NGO202101 AAJ Miller, Bruce An Optimistic Plan - 77:116-120 (2003) -
NGO202101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 77:416 (2003) -
NGO202101 CLIM - - - 3:97 (May 2005) -
NGO202101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200341602/Asia-Tibet-Himalaya-Ngozumpa-Kang-II-West-Face-Bearzi-Death - - -
NGO202101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200311600/An-Optimistic-Plan - - -