Nepal Peak | 1986 S Ridge from W

A France expedition to Nepal Peak in 1986 via S Ridge from W, led by Dominique Hembise. Summit reached on 16th October 1986. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 910
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NEPA86301
Peak ID NEPA
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge from W
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Dominique Hembise
Sponsor Joint Nepal-French Kirat Chuli Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-09-28
Summit Date 1986-10-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 18
Total Days 27
Termination Date 1986-10-25
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6650m due to snow, wind and Hembise's frostbite
High Point (m) 6650
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Permit for Kirat Chuli (KIRA-863-01)
Campsites BC(28/09,5000m),ABC(03/10,5200m),C1(05/10,5700m),C2(13/10,6150m),xxx(16/10,6650m)
Route Notes BC at base of Cock's Comb, west of Nepal Camp C1 in cwm half way between Cross Peak & Nepal Peak C2 on South Ridge of Nepal Peak (a little on Sikkimese side) High point at South Ridge of Nepal Peak. C1 in Cwm which was dangerously threatened by snow avalanches: small avalanches came near C1 in center of Cwm. On 16th Oct turned down because rotten snow on ridge but did not have enough fixed rope at the time. Now Dominique Hembise had frostbitten fingers and toes and stopped climbing. Others could not carry on because frequent new snowfall and strong wind on ridge: great turbulance of wind from Nepal and Sikkim. Gave up climb because members discouraged by bad weather conditions. All left mountain 19-25 Oct. Lazizi used oxygen at BC in beginning when he did not acclimatize well.
Accidents Hembise frostbitten fingers and toes but they will heal; no other problems (except mild altitude sickness in start of expedition)
Achievement -
Agency Trekking & Expedition Services (TES)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449966
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s ridge from w

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Arnaud Ansart M 1957 France Climber Palaiseau, Essonne, France Engineer Details Other expeditions
Rassat Ansart M 1959 France Climber Palaiseau, Essonne, France Laboratory technician Details Other expeditions
Denise Hembise F 1944 France Climber Plaisir, Yvelines, France Editor Details Other expeditions
Dominique Hembise M 1951 France Leader Plaisir, Yvelines, France Aeronautical engineer Details Other expeditions
Samyr Lazizi M 1950 France Climber Velizy-Villacoublay, Yvelines, France Engineer Details Other expeditions
Francois Tanery M 1957 France Exp Doctor Rouen, Seine-Maritime, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Chowang Rinzi Sherpa M 1949 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Jambia Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NEPA86301 AAJ Hembise, Dominique - - 61:222 (1987) -
NEPA86301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722201/Asia-Nepal-Nepal-Peak-Attempt - - -