Nemjung | 1994 S Buttress-W Ridge

A UK expedition to Nemjung in 1994 via S Buttress-W Ridge, led by Peter Hudd. Summit reached on 7th November 1994. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1360
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NEMJ94301
Peak ID NEMJ
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Buttress-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Peter Hudd
Sponsor British Himlung Expedition to Himlung/Nemjung
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Marshyangdi->Tharche->then north->Bhute and north->BC
Basecamp Date 1994-10-13
Summit Date 1994-11-07
Summit Time -
Summit Days 25
Total Days 31
Termination Date 1994-11-13
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6370m due to snowfall and especially lack of time
High Point (m) 6370
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 1750
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/10,4450m),C1(15/10,4800m),C2(21/10,5300m),C3(01/11,6000m),C4(02/11,6200m),xxx(07/11,6370m)
Route Notes BC east of Tilje Peak C1 at glacier, northeast of Tilje and southeast of Gyajikang C2 at rock buttress C3 just below col C4 at col between Gyajikang and Nemjung High point at West Ridge. Were having avalanches every 10 minutes; of 30 days at BC only 4 days of no new snowfall & were even serac avalanches; were caught in spindrift of 1 or 2 avalanches but no damage done except few bruises from stonefall. Because of serac danger did not go up S Face direct but up a moraine glacier to W Ridge & reached col between Gyajikang & Nemjung. Between BC & C1 easy glacier travel but danger from seracs & crevasses; between C1 & C2 90% rock, rock buttress with technical climbing quite hard in places; fixed 750 ft rope here. C3 above buttress on snow slope to col, technically easy but relatively high risk from crevasses & serac. C4 not far beyond C3 & used C3 more as dump than place to stay but not entirely. From C4 went 500-600 vertical feet along W Ridge but bad weather from 2nd November with high winds & much snowfall. On 4th & 7th went above C4 but very exposed ridge, very cold & windy & snowfall continuously & ridge 50 ft cornice & seracs. Would have needed 7-10 days to have finished ridge, using but not fixing ropes abseiling down & didn't have that much time. Had fixed 1000 ft more rope above C2 on rock buttress. * This team was on mountain named Nemjung on Annapurna Conservation Area map and Hudd satisfied this same mountain. British attempted 1991 winter and Americans 1987 spring he thinks likely same mountain as Japanese were on in 1980s: his sirdar wandered around and found old Japanese items at a camp in a logical site for an east ridge attempt in 1983 autumn, the time of Japanese claimed 1st ascent of Himlung.
Accidents Slight frostbite by McCarthy
Achievement -
Agency Himalaya Expeditions
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452918
Year 1994
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s buttress-w ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Raymond Harris M 1956 UK Climber Bristol, Avon, England Stress engineer Details Other expeditions
Peter John Hudd M 1960 UK Leader Bristol, Avon, England Quantity surveyor Details Other expeditions
David McCarthy M 1965 UK Climber Bedford, England Outdoor pursuits instructor Details Other expeditions
Brian John Ottewell M 1948 UK Climber Derby, Derbyshire, England Retired computer analyst Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NEMJ94301 AAJ Hudd, Peter - - 69:251-252 (1995) -
NEMJ94301 HIGH - - - 151:14 (Jun 1995) -
NEMJ94301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199525105/Asia-Nepal-Nemjung-Attempt - - -