Nemjung | 1988 W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Nemjung in 1988 via W Ridge, led by Yoshida Kazumi. Summit reached on 17th December 1988. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 100
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NEMJ88401
Peak ID NEMJ
Year 1988
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yoshida Kazumi
Sponsor NTT Kyushu Alpine Club Himlung Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dudh Khola->Hampuk & small stream N of Hampuk
Basecamp Date 1988-11-19
Summit Date 1988-12-17
Summit Time -
Summit Days 28
Total Days 32
Termination Date 1988-12-21
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6650m due to bad weather conditions
High Point (m) 6650
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/11,4050m),C1(25/11,4600m),C2(08/12,5400m),C3(12/12,6000m),C4(15/12,6350m),xxx(17/12,6650m)
Route Notes Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung. BC at small stream moraine south of mountain C1 at glacier southwest of summit C2 below West Col on hanging glacier C3 on snow plateau just east of West Ridge C4 on West Ridge (Tibet side of serac) High point at 2nd rock steep ridge. "Very difficult mountain." From BC to C1 2 hrs walk; C1 to C2 8 hrs exposed to dangerous rockfall while climbing icefall. Fixed entire route (every day rock and ice avalanches). C2 to C3 icefall (again ice blocks falling). C3 to C4 on knife ridge with left leg in Tibet, right leg in Nepal. Very hard blue ice; again all fixed with ropes. Above C4 very sharp knife ridge on very hard blue ice (crampons slipped). To pass large hanging ice, Baba made hole through it. High point of 6650m was 50m high rock wall which had 3 rock steps, 1st one Baba passed but other two presented greater problems and so gave up this attempt in strong wind and need for rest for 3 days. Then 3 days heavy snowfall began 18th Dec which left 20cm deep snow at BC and no good weather coming. Did not attempt S Face; many avalanches and "no route." "It is miracle that all members alive." 1 member's rucksack has big hole from rock that fell.
Accidents Moti Lal frostbitten cheeks and nose; some climbers hit by rock but not hurt
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450761
Year 1988
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hiroyuki Baba M 1948 Japan Climbing Leader Kikuchi-gun, Kumamoto, Japan Engineer (NTT) Details Other expeditions
Seiichi Egashira M 1955 Japan Climber Nakama, Fukuoka, Japan Technician (NTT) Details Other expeditions
Masahiro Kasugai M 1950 Japan Climber Kumamoto-shi, Kumamoto, Japan Technician (NTT) Details Other expeditions
Yoshida Kazumi M 1942 Japan Leader Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan Engineer (NTT) Details Other expeditions
Hideo Koike M 1959 Japan Climber Hamamatsu, Shizuoka, Japan Unemployed (worked 5 years in a flower shop) Details Other expeditions
Shoichi Nakayama M 1952 Japan Climber Kumamoto-shi, Kumamoto, Japan Office worker (NTT) Details Other expeditions
Shuzo Shigemori M 1949 Japan Climber Yukuhashi, Fukuoka, Japan Technician (NTT) Details Other expeditions
Masatomo Tsuru M 1957 Japan Climber Nagasaki, Japan Office clerk (NTT) Details Other expeditions
Moti Lal Gurung M 1950 Nepal H-A Worker Sedua, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Thile (Pemba Dorje) Sherpa M 1953 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NEMJ88401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 63:213 (1989) -
NEMJ88401 MM - - - 127:13 (May 1989) -
NEMJ88401 IWA - - - :274 (1989) -
NEMJ88401 IWA - - - :73 (1989) -
NEMJ88401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198921301/Asia-Nepal-Himlung-Himal-Attempt - - -