Nemjung | 1988 W Ridge
A Japan expedition to Nemjung in 1988 via W Ridge, led by Yoshida Kazumi. Summit reached on 17th December 1988. 10 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 100 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | NEMJ88401 |
| Peak ID | NEMJ |
| Year | 1988 |
| Season | 4 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Yoshida Kazumi |
| Sponsor | NTT Kyushu Alpine Club Himlung Expedition |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Dudh Khola->Hampuk & small stream N of Hampuk |
| Basecamp Date | 1988-11-19 |
| Summit Date | 1988-12-17 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 28 |
| Total Days | 32 |
| Termination Date | 1988-12-21 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6650m due to bad weather conditions |
| High Point (m) | 6650 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 8 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 2 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(19/11,4050m),C1(25/11,4600m),C2(08/12,5400m),C3(12/12,6000m),C4(15/12,6350m),xxx(17/12,6650m) |
| Route Notes | Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung. BC at small stream moraine south of mountain C1 at glacier southwest of summit C2 below West Col on hanging glacier C3 on snow plateau just east of West Ridge C4 on West Ridge (Tibet side of serac) High point at 2nd rock steep ridge. "Very difficult mountain." From BC to C1 2 hrs walk; C1 to C2 8 hrs exposed to dangerous rockfall while climbing icefall. Fixed entire route (every day rock and ice avalanches). C2 to C3 icefall (again ice blocks falling). C3 to C4 on knife ridge with left leg in Tibet, right leg in Nepal. Very hard blue ice; again all fixed with ropes. Above C4 very sharp knife ridge on very hard blue ice (crampons slipped). To pass large hanging ice, Baba made hole through it. High point of 6650m was 50m high rock wall which had 3 rock steps, 1st one Baba passed but other two presented greater problems and so gave up this attempt in strong wind and need for rest for 3 days. Then 3 days heavy snowfall began 18th Dec which left 20cm deep snow at BC and no good weather coming. Did not attempt S Face; many avalanches and "no route." "It is miracle that all members alive." 1 member's rucksack has big hole from rock that fell. |
| Accidents | Moti Lal frostbitten cheeks and nose; some climbers hit by rock but not hurt |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450761 |
| Year | 1988 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | w ridge |
Members
10 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hiroyuki Baba | M | 1948 | Japan | Climbing Leader | Kikuchi-gun, Kumamoto, Japan | Engineer (NTT) | Details Other expeditions |
| Seiichi Egashira | M | 1955 | Japan | Climber | Nakama, Fukuoka, Japan | Technician (NTT) | Details Other expeditions |
| Masahiro Kasugai | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Kumamoto-shi, Kumamoto, Japan | Technician (NTT) | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshida Kazumi | M | 1942 | Japan | Leader | Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan | Engineer (NTT) | Details Other expeditions |
| Hideo Koike | M | 1959 | Japan | Climber | Hamamatsu, Shizuoka, Japan | Unemployed (worked 5 years in a flower shop) | Details Other expeditions |
| Shoichi Nakayama | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Kumamoto-shi, Kumamoto, Japan | Office worker (NTT) | Details Other expeditions |
| Shuzo Shigemori | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Yukuhashi, Fukuoka, Japan | Technician (NTT) | Details Other expeditions |
| Masatomo Tsuru | M | 1957 | Japan | Climber | Nagasaki, Japan | Office clerk (NTT) | Details Other expeditions |
| Moti Lal Gurung | M | 1950 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Sedua, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nawang Thile (Pemba Dorje) Sherpa | M | 1953 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| NEMJ88401 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 63:213 (1989) | - |
| NEMJ88401 | MM | - | - | - | 127:13 (May 1989) | - |
| NEMJ88401 | IWA | - | - | - | :274 (1989) | - |
| NEMJ88401 | IWA | - | - | - | :73 (1989) | - |
| NEMJ88401 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198921301/Asia-Nepal-Himlung-Himal-Attempt | - | - | - |