Nemjung | 1987 S Ridge on right-side of S Face

A USA expedition to Nemjung in 1987 via S Ridge on right-side of S Face, led by Kevin Swigert. Summit reached on 22nd April 1987. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 248
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NEMJ87101
Peak ID NEMJ
Year 1987
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge on right-side of S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Kevin Swigert
Sponsor 1987 American Himlung Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Marshyangdi->Dudh Khola->Bimthang
Basecamp Date 1987-04-11
Summit Date 1987-04-22
Summit Time -
Summit Days 11
Total Days 13
Termination Date 1987-04-24
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6100m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 6100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/04,4200m),ABC(15/04,4390m),Biv1(18/04,5200m),Biv2(19/04,5600m),Biv3(21/04,5900m),xxx(22/04,6100m)
Route Notes Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung. Began actual climb on 18th and had series of bivouacs. On 18th climbed Ratna Icefall to 5200m where bivouacked; one tent crushed by avalanche that night and couloir avalanching constantly, but next day not so much avalanche and latter part of the day was ice climbing to 5600m where bivouacked on crest of W Spur of S Ridge (complete S Ridge not possible with so much snowfall). 20th fixed traverse back to main gully and slept at same bivouac. 21st climbed the W Spur to first hanging ice field and open bivouac at 5900m at point where joined S Ridge. Everyone had 60 lb pack on difficult climb. Very brittle ice climbing on 22nd by 2 members and down to 5600m that night. 23rd all to BC in bad weather and Rosso sick. Swigert and Tenney could have gone on above 1st hanging glacier (there were 2) but others not able to descend alone on more than 20 300-ft rappels. Now weather had deteriorated and supplies in short supply - storm now broke. "It is beautiful line" up this South Ridge, which is very steep. Climbed 6600 ft of mountain and most of it vertical rock and ice both; difficult rock climbing because it is featureless but good granite. Approach route should have been on east side of glacier, west side of South Ridge.
Accidents Rosso altitude sickness and other illness (perhaps virus)
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450155
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge on right-side of s face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kirk Douglas Bachman M 1954 USA Climber Stanley, Idaho Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Robert Rosso M 1947 USA Climber Ketchum, Idaho Merchant, outdoor sports equipment Details Other expeditions
R. Kevin Swigert M 1954 USA Leader Ketchum, Idaho Coach, sports & writer Details Other expeditions
Stephen Tenney M 1952 USA Climber Ketchum, Idaho Builder & professional ski and avalanche patrol Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NEMJ87101 AAJ Swigert, Kevin - - 62:214-215 (1988) -
NEMJ87101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198821403/Asia-Nepal-Himlung-Himal-Attempt - - -