Nemjung | 1983 E Ridge from SW

A Japan expedition to Nemjung in 1983 via E Ridge from SW, led by Junji Kurotaki. Summit reached on 27th October 1983. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 114
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NEMJ83301
Peak ID NEMJ
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge from SW
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Junji Kurotaki
Sponsor Nepal and Hirosaki University Mt. Himlung Joint Expedition 1983
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-09-14
Summit Date 1983-10-27
Summit Time 1605
Summit Days 43
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7140
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/09,4300m),C1(26/09,5050m),C2(01/10,5690m),C3(18/10,6240m),Biv(26/10,6590m),Smt(27/10)
Route Notes Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung. BC at east of glacier (beside glacier). No plan to put a C4 on ridge. Started from C3 on 27 Oct at 5:30 am and 2 from biv at 6590m at 6:30 am. On top 4:05 pm by all 4 summiters: biv men had to make route so moved more slowly then C3 men, who caught up with them. Strong wind but clear. Minami and Lama returned to C3 while other 3 to biv. S Ridge would be terribly difficult: glacier at bottom "not so good" and then difficult rock face below ridge itself. East Ridge is only route. From C3 to top along ridge difficult ice conditions (with soft snow over hard ice). Beyond C2 very sharp rock ridge which had to go round. Most difficult part of climb of climb was very steep final ridge. No serious accidents. One Sherpa hurt finger with ice axe and could no longer bend it. Leader did not take part in climbing at all.
Accidents None serious; one Sherpa hurt finger with ice axe and could no longer bend it
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448878
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge from sw

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Hori M 1957 Japan Climbing Leader Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Geology student Details Other expeditions
Junji Kurotaki M 1952 Japan Leader Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Makito Minami M 1961 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Student, anthropology Details Other expeditions
Takashi Nishioka M 1955 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Wataru Saito M 1957 Japan Climber Kurashiki, Okayama, Japan Agriculture student Details Other expeditions
Ken Takahashi M 1958 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Student of English literature Details Other expeditions
Kirki Lama Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Kami Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NEMJ83301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 58:251 (1984) -
NEMJ83301 JAC Hori, Hiroshi First Ascent of Himlung Himal - 79:9-10 (1984) -
NEMJ83301 MM - - - 96:12 (Mar 1984) -
NEMJ83301 JAC Hori, Hiroshi First Ascent of Himlung Himal - 79:27-31 (1984) -
NEMJ83301 IWA - - - 105:201 (1984) -
NEMJ83301 IWA - - - 105:42-43 (1984) -
NEMJ83301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198425102/Asia-Nepal-Himlung - - -
NEMJ83301 JAN - Nemjung 7,139m - 7:94-95 (May 2006) -