Nemjung | 1982 NE Ridge from SE

A Japan expedition to Nemjung in 1982 via NE Ridge from SE, led by Makoto Akashi. Summit reached on 16th May 1982. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1693
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NEMJ82101
Peak ID NEMJ
Year 1982
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge from SE
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Makoto Akashi
Sponsor Nepal Hirosaki University Joint Expedition 1982 - Himlung Himal
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1982-04-05
Summit Date 1982-05-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 41
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6800m due to wind and snow, broken tents
High Point (m) 6800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/04,4000m),C1(15/04,4500m),C2(25/04,5900m),C3(04/05,6300m),C4(13/05,6500m),xxx(16/05,6800m)
Route Notes Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung. BC to C1 10 days because carried all loads to C1 and made it advanced base. C1 to C2 very difficult, steep, snow avalanches, difficult couloir, another 10 days; between C1 and C2 had deposit place 5500m. C2 to C3 weather bad: much snow, many crevassses, long way: about 3 km distance, maybe 4 km. C4 on col at 6500m, only 200m higher; bad weather, again much snow. Highest point 6700-6800m on 18th May. Again snow and strong wind. C4 tents broken, can't stay in tent and made snowhole where 3 men stayed 2 nights (Kudo, Hori and sirdar Ang Kami Tshering). Tents broken also at C3 and C2. So when went down from C4 snowhole not able to see tents, must dig them out there 3 had gone to highest point on 16th May. 18th May high party went down and climb finished. This route is possible from C3; above no dangers; above C4 2 or 3 difficult places but not so steep; no need for a C5. 8 climbing Japanese + 3 Sherpas (nominal members) Letter to Elizabeth Hawley from Jimmy Roberts - May 31, 1982 The Japanese have just returned from their unsuccessful assault on Himlung, which they tried to climb via the NE Ridge, but never really got onto the ridge because of all the snow that fell and kept covering their route, and the winds and snow that broke tents and caused a bit of havoc. BC - 4000m - 5 April C1 - 4500m - 15 April (this became base when all loads were ferried to this camp) C2 - 5900m - 25 April C3 - 6300m - 4 May C4 - 6500m - 13 May (on Col) High point - 6700-6800m - 6 May C1 to C2: very difficult: steep, snow avalanches, difficult couloir. Between these camps, expedition had a deposit place at 5500m. C2 to C3: many crevasses, long way (3-4 km), much snow fell and covered route. C3 to C4: vertical distance only 200m: again much snow. After high point reached on 16 May, expedition gave up because snow and wind broke tents at C4 (so they dug a snowhole and stayed in it two nights) and also at C3 and C2. Eight-member team of Japanese plus three Sherpa members had no serious accident or frostbite. The route is possible, they believe, with no additional camps above C4 if only there wasn't so much snow. No dangers above C3, not difficult above C4 except for a couple of spots and not very steep. Cheo - they could see both north and south side of this nearby peak and think its easy from the north, very steep on the southern side.
Accidents No big accident but snow damage by snow avalanche in couloir below C2; no serious frostbite
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448348
Year 1982
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge from se

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Makoto Akashi M 1928 Japan Leader Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Professor at Hirosaki University Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Hori M 1957 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Graduate student, geophysics at Hirosaki University Details Other expeditions
Tamotsu Kobayashi M 1958 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Just graduated from Hirosaki University Details Other expeditions
Mitsutaka Kudo M 1948 Japan Climbing Leader Shinchinohe, Aomori, Japan Teacher, chemistry in senior high school Details Other expeditions
Junji Kurotaki M 1952 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Yutaka Noto M 1959 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Undergraduate student of English literature at Hirosaki Univ. Details Other expeditions
Wataru Saito M 1957 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Graduate student, agriculture at Okayama University Details Other expeditions
Masatoshi Sato M 1940 Japan Deputy Leader Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Teacher of Japanese history in senior high school Details Other expeditions
Takayoshi Sato M 1949 Japan Exp Doctor Nagoya, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Zenzo Shikanai M 1941 Japan Climber Iwasaki, Iwate, Japan Teacher of technology in junior high school Details Other expeditions
Ang Kami Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NEMJ82101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 57:237 (1983) -
NEMJ82101 IWA - - - 95:198 (1983) -
NEMJ82101 IWA - - - 95:42 (1983) -
NEMJ82101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198323703/Asia-Nepal-Himlung-Himal-Attempt - - -