Nemjung | 2009 S Face

A France expedition to Nemjung in 2009 via S Face, led by Yannick Graziani, Christian Trommsdorff. Summit reached on 15th October 2009. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6683
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NEMJ09302
Peak ID NEMJ
Year 2009
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Yannick Graziani, Christian Trommsdorff
Sponsor French Nemjung Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2009-10-09
Summit Date 2009-10-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 6
Total Days 10
Termination Date 2009-10-19
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7000m due to Trommsdorff's weakness
High Point (m) 7000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(09/10,4400m),Biv1(11/10,5300m),Biv2(12/10,5800m),Biv3(13/10,6200m),C4(14/10,6500m),xxx(15/10,7000m)
Route Notes BC at bottom of South Face Biv1 on South Face Biv2 on South Face High point at top of South Face. Email from Christian Trommsdorff - Nov 10, 2009 Nemjung South Face, Yannick Graziani & Christian Trommsdorff - Oct 11-16, 2009 A route of around 2400m, 45 pitches (+some simu-climbing, maybe 25% of the route), ED +, mostly ice/mixed and snow, a few pitches with just rock. Many very delicate snow ridges/walls/flutes to climb or traverse, fantastic gullies and mixed climbing, many vertical sections; a very committing route, complicated abseils during the descent and also we had to climb from a gully onto the base of the first tower (which we avoided by a 60m abseil on the way up). Bottom of the face 4750m, bivys at around 5300m, 5800m, 6200m, 6500m. We reached the top of the South Face at an altitude of about 7000m. We climbed the entire route free. Gear: 2x60 twin ropes, 4 ice screws (not enough!!!), 6 friends, a few nuts, 10 pitons (we dropped 4), and a few slings... We managed to put up what we believe is a new route on the South Face of Nemjung. A great 6-day climb of the South Spur, maybe the most beautiful we have ever done, certainly the most continously steep, sustained and constantly exposed, although no pitches were as hard as the hardest ones on Chomolonzo or Pumori. Always uncertainty about the key passages; on the last day there was a miraculous hole in the very corniced ridge to cross to the other side. We reached the top of the South Face on Oct 15th at 2:15 pm, but not the top of Nemjung; another bivy would have been necessary to follow the the fairly flat and long ridge to the summit, but the lower wind window was closing in on us, and I felt too weak to keep going that day which would have meant a long descent in the dark, so we turned around. The previous day I had been hit on the helmet by big chunk of ice and I felt in a kind of shocked state, although I didn't lose consciousness. Later on the long way down I would have several moments of "absence," in particular when dropping Yannick's backpack. (2 days after the climb he went up to a bergschrund and found the pack, but the camera had dropped out ... so we have only my photos and lost his 2 hours of film!!!)... No objective dangers in stable conditions except for an easy 1-minute traverse of a couloir below the big serac. We waited 3 full days after the massive snow dump and started early on Oct 11th, and come back down to BC at 10 pm on Oct 16th. On the 2nd day the cold weather helped the gully behind the first tower has some mixed sections with very poor rock. On the third day the absence of strong wind probably prevented icicles falling off the 1st serac on the ridge.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency None
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458389
Year 2009
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yannick Marcel Graziani M 1973 France Co-Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Christian Trommsdorff M 1964 France Co-Leader Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NEMJ09302 - - http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web09f/newswire-nemjung-details - - -
NEMJ09302 - - https://www.climbing.com/news/french-climb-south-spur-of-nemjung/ - - -