Nangamari I | 2010 S Ridge from E

A Australia expedition to Nangamari I in 2010 via S Ridge from E, led by Tim Macartney-Snape. Summit reached on 5th November 2010. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6984
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NANG10301
Peak ID NANG
Year 2010
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge from E
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Australia
Leaders Tim Macartney-Snape
Sponsor Matt Poz Yangma Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2010-10-26
Summit Date 2010-11-05
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 10
Total Days 13
Termination Date 2010-11-08
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6547
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 50
Total Members 8
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/10,5185m),ABC(28/10,5700m),Biv1(03/11,5850m),Biv2(04/11,5900m),Smt(05/11)
Route Notes Note: This team originally thought they were climbing Pabuk Kang (6244m). BC at west side of Nanguma Pokhari ABC south of South Ridge 1st biv south of South Ridge 2nd biv foot of South Ridge. The team trekked up the Tamur River to Olangchungola and the Yangma Khola, then north past Yangma village to a peak on the Tibetan border and south to Nunguma Pokhari (lake), south-southwest of Pabuk Kang's South Ridge. (Pabuk Kang, 6244m is also on the border. Macartney-Snape believed its name is actually Yangma Peak, hence his expedition's name. It is unnamed on trekking maps and on HMG's map "Yanma" sheet 2787-04). The team pitched their BC on 26 October at 5185m near the west side of Nunguma Pokhari, and ABC two days later at 5700m, south of the South Ridge. On the 29th returned to BC. Now there were several days of snowfall. They went up to ABC on the 30th, but down to BC on the 31st. They ventured up again on 2 November to ABC, and on the 3rd they made their first bivouac at 5850m, south of the South Ridge. They continued their climb the next day with another bivouac at 5900m at the foot of the ridge, a recce up the ridge to 6050m and returned to the second bivouac to sleep. On 5 November they went for the top. At 4 am all members except Finnigan (who was ill in BC) and Rodgers (who had stayed at BC throughout the climb) left their second bivouac and followed the ridge to a steep rock step at 6100m, which was very technical; Barton and Macartney-Snape managed to turn the step on the left. Above it was perfect classic deep snow. The two were on the summit at 2 pm and descended to a saddle at 6050m at 3:45 pm and climbed a small peak (pt 6128) which the step led to, then rappelled down steep rock to rejoin the others. All were in the high bivouac between 8:00 and 10:00 pm. The other four members had also reached the saddle. Baldwin and Scott climbed from there to 6150m on the summit ridge at 3:45 pm, too late for them to continue to the top. All four went back to their second bivouac. Everyone was in BC on the 6th. Finnigan got no higher than ABC. He was not acclimatizing well and in fact his condition deteriorated. On the 8th, Finnigan, Macartney-Snape and Scott left BC by helicopter to Kathmandu while the rest of the expedition trekked out.
Accidents Finnigan altitude sickness
Achievement 1st ascent
Agency Himalayan Guiding Institute
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458776
Year 2010
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge from e

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kenneth George Herbert Baldwin M 1954 Australia Climber Canberra, ACT, Australia Physicist Details Other expeditions
David Charles Barton M 1978 Australia Climber Canberra, ACT, Australia Engineer on World Bank staff Details Other expeditions
John Joseph Finnigan M 1946 Australia Climber Canberra, ACT, Australia Scientist Details Other expeditions
Theodorus Simon Leonard (Theo) Hooy M 1954 Australia Climber Canberra, ACT, Australia Civil servant Details Other expeditions
Timothy John Macartney-Snape M 1956 Australia Leader Colo Vale, NSW, Australia Outdoor equipment manufacturer Details Other expeditions
Stacy Anne Rodger F 1966 Australia Climber Colo Vale, NSW, Australia Special education teacher Details Other expeditions
Keith Douglas Scott M 1961 Australia Climber Hughes, ACT, Australia Civil servant Details Other expeditions
Adrian Colin Cameron M 1956 Australia Climber Davis, California University professor Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NANG10301 AAJ Macartney-Snape, Tim - - 85:337-339 (2011) -
NANG10301 AAJ - - - 89:305 (2015) -
NANG10301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213287/Pabuk-Kang-Correction - - -
NANG10301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201133700/Pabuk-Kang-aka-Yangma-Southwest-Ridge - - -
NANG10301 NZAJ Baldwin, Ken & Cameron, Colin Yangma Expedition 2010 - 63:64-67 (2011) -