Nampa | 1979 W Ridge

A USA expedition to Nampa in 1979 via W Ridge, led by William A. Roos. Summit reached on 24th May 1979. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2073
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NAMP79101
Peak ID NAMP
Year 1979
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders William A. Roos
Sponsor Intermountain Himalayan Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Bajang->Seti Khola-Kali Gad->Chamlia Khola
Basecamp Date 1979-05-04
Summit Date 1979-05-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 20
Total Days 22
Termination Date 1979-05-26
Termination Reason 9
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 5640
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/05,3960m),C1(18/05,4575m),C2(19/05,5180m),C3(22/05,5640m),xxx(24/05,5640m)
Route Notes Wells - 8 June 79 3 days out, he fell in boulder rock field in river area and injured knee and couldn't continue with expedition. BC on 4th May at 13,000 ft due south of S Ridge of Api and ENE of point 6250. From BC 2-3 miles for ferrying loads to a dump which became C1 at 15,000 ft SW of Nampa Peak. C2 1000 ft below col west of Nampa at 17,000 ft on about 11th May. Daily snowfall of 2-3 inches except 2 clear days after arrival at BC on 4 May. At C2 had heavier snowfall on 20th May in severe storm. Got onto col above C2 and put camp there at about 18,000 ft in tent and snow cave on 22 May. From C3 started work on W Ridge. Went to maximum altitude of 18,500 ft east along ridge in next couple of days. Serious climbing ahead to 20,000 ft and stopped climbing because ran out of time. Last day of upward was on 24 May when storm came in and ended idea of ascent 25th. If had had time, would have had no trouble with route. Camps were not fixed camps - when made C3 pulled up C2. Didn't have equipment for fixed camps. Left BC on 26th May on return march. Highest point reached on 24 May no higher than 18,500 ft. Would have meant another week of climbing to reach top. Members had other commitments. Had 10 days food left. Wells & 2 Sibleys - 5 April 79 Want to go up S Face and down W Ridge. On face perhaps only 1 camp in snow cave - on ridge perhaps several prepared camps, perhaps not. Roos - 2 April 79 Probably up S Face or S Buttress on south side and then to W Ridge up high on ridge. Somewhat different from British and Japanese routes. BC at 13,000 ft at same place as British (John Allen). 40-50 porters to BC probably about one month on mountain if not delayed badly getting to BC. No Sherpas above BC; no oxygen for climbing or sleeping.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447257
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Susan X. Billings F 1952 USA Climber Eldorado Springs, Colorado Glass designer, alpine instructor and guide Details Other expeditions
Nancy Farnesworth Neiley F 1953 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Carpenter, water-system worker, alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
William A. (Bill) Roos M 1948 USA Leader Eldorado Springs, Colorado Carpenter, mountaineering-equip designer, technical consultant Details Other expeditions
Jerry Sibley M 1939 USA Climber Vail, Colorado Master plumber, PSIA ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Paul Sibley M 1947 USA Climber Salt Lake City, Utah Carpenter, alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alan Sudweeks M 1939 USA Exp Doctor Denver, Colorado Physician Details Other expeditions
Charles (Chuck) Tolton M 1952 USA Climber Copper Mountain, Colorado Ski patrolman, Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Mark Emery Udall M 1950 USA Climber Oregon Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Matthew (Matt) Wells M 1946 USA Climber Hailey, Idaho Ski patrolman, alpine instructor, high school teacher Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NAMP79101 AAJ Roos, William - - 53:632 (1980) -
NAMP79101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198063201/Asia-Nepal-Nampa-Attempt - - -