Nampa | 1972 S Face-W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Nampa in 1972 via S Face-W Ridge, led by Seigo Matsushima. Summit reached on 5th May 1972. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2369
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NAMP72101
Peak ID NAMP
Year 1972
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Seigo Matsushima
Sponsor Aomori Japanese Expedition to Nepal Himalaya 1972
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dhangarhi->Baitadi->Chamlia Khola
Basecamp Date 1972-03-31
Summit Date 1972-05-05
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 35
Total Days 38
Termination Date 1972-05-08
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6729
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(31/03,3980m),C1(04/04,4800m),C2(14/04,5395m),C3(24/04,5547m),C4(29/04,5880m),Biv(04/05,6500m),Smt(05/05)
Route Notes Matsushima - 3 June 72 Matsushima and Sawada arrive today; Komiyama and Kimura await another flight. Only one summit attempt made. C4 established 29 April by Kimura and Takahashi. Arrived 4 May then from C4 on West Ridge at 5:30 started for summit with bivouac bag. West Ridge very steep and very difficult followed ridge almost all way to summit from col. Route already made halfway above C4 but knew would take 2 days to summit. 4 May night bivouac at 6500m. 5 May between reached summit 12:30 and stayed 1 hour for photos and sketches, left flags. Started down together 1:30 pm, same route down. Kimura down first abseiling and waiting for Takahashi who started down. 5 or 6m from ridge west of summit, fixed pix came off and he fell down onto north face 2000m. Not possible to reach him: no equipment or manpower and anyone can't survive such long fall; like falling out of airplane. Sawada and Sherpa Sona up in support and helped Kimura down from 6300m 5 May. Matsushima little rib pain. Komiyama hurt knee but now all right. Same route as British; fixed their fixed rope. Matsushima - 3 March 72 Dhangari 3 days 4 week caravan Arrive BC about 3 April Summit 27 April + 5 days lee way Finish climbing - 1 May return to BC Matsushima - 21 Feb 72 Expedition leaves in charter Dakota 27 days caravan to base camp 35 days climbing period of research for mapping and dental conditions Arrive KTM 20 July Mail via Trans-Himal Tour Matsushima - 17 Feb 72 He arrived today and 4 others 10 days after 10 days; expedition to fly to Dhangari on 1 March in charter flight with 1300 kg baggage. 3 Sherpas. Route via Chamlia and Nampa Col. 2 camps on glacier and C3 perhaps same as British C3 site. Perhaps C5 not necessary but will carry 1 small tent to C4 for possible need beyond C4. If possible will put C2 on Col but maybe Col too far. Route via West Ridge. Would like to know from Allen re snow rock ice conditions of West Ridge and nbr of Sherpas - steepness above C3 50-60 glacier. West Ridge seems only route: South Face 3000m very steep and East Ridge has very difficult icefall and other problems. Expedition's route to and from the mountain: Kathmandu by air to Dhangari-Doti-Chamlia Khola-base camp-Chaubishi-Seti Khola-Talkot-Jumla-by air to KTM. British Manchester Expedition to Nampa Climbed via West Ridge. Highest point reached was 20,500 ft where C5 was pitched.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444675
Year 1972
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-w ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Seigo Matsushima M 1936 Japan Leader Mutsu, Aomori, Japan Dentist (has own private clinic) Details Other expeditions
Takuro Komiyama M 1940 Japan Deputy Leader Aomori-shi, Aomori, Japan Official of Aomori prefecture Details Other expeditions
Fukutoshi Kimura M 1944 Japan Climber Hachinohe, Aomori, Japan Office worker in a chemical manufacturing company Details Other expeditions
Itaru Sawada M 1947 Japan Climber Towada, Aomori, Japan Office worker in a construction company Details Other expeditions
Susumu Takahashi M 1948 Japan Climber Kuroishi, Aomori, Japan Officer in the Japanese Navy Details Other expeditions
Sona Hisi Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NAMP72101 AAJ Yoshizawa, Ichiro - - 47:487 (1973) -
NAMP72101 JAC Matsushima, Seigo The First Ascent of Nampa, 1972 - 68:8-11 (1973) -
NAMP72101 MM - - - 22:9 (Jul 1972) -
NAMP72101 JAC Matsushima, Seigo The First Ascent of Nampa, 1972 - 68:20-35 (1973) -
NAMP72101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197348701/Asia-Nepal-Nampa-First-Ascent - - -