Nangpai Gosum I | 2006 S Face of S Smt

A Japan expedition to Nangpai Gosum I in 2006 via S Face of S Smt, led by Kazuyoshi Kondo, Da Gombu Sherpa. Summit reached on 26th October 2006. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5440
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID NAG106301
Peak ID NAG1
Year 2006
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face of S Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kazuyoshi Kondo, Da Gombu Sherpa
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2006-10-03
Summit Date 2006-10-26
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 23
Total Days 26
Termination Date 2006-10-29
Termination Reason 2
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7225
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 2800
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/10,5250m),C1(08/10,5600m),C2(14/10,6300m),C3A(24/10,6800m),C3B(25/10,7150m),S Smt(26/10,7225m)
Route Notes Japanese-Nepalese Nagpai Gosum (Autumn 2006) - 2 Nov 2006 Team made C3 first at 6800m because of much new snow, which was tiring for the climbers to make trail through. The new snow had fallen during the ten-day period after C2 had been established. Also above C2 was a difficult section. But the only place for a camp at 6800m had space for only one tent, so a higher camp 3 was needed for more climbers to stay in. So C3B was pitched at 7150m the next day. (It was placed in a spot that could have been avalanched, but no avalanches actually hit it). The route, which was the South Face of the summit, was made difficult by very poor ice and snow conditions, says Da Gombu. Ice was very unstable, and in places there was a layer of snow over hollow ice. There was also bad rock. It was impossible to use ice screws; team used snowbars and rock pitons. Da Gombu rates the technical difficulty of much of the route as equal to the Everest's South Pillar, but it's "not too bad" for the well trained Sherpas of this team. (The elderly Japanese members, he says, followed the ropes fixed by the Nepalese.) Summit party members Kondo, Kozu and Mingma Dorje left CA at 4:30 am on 26 October, joined the other summit party people, Da Gombu, Pemba Dorje, Miss Pasang Lhamu, and Lam Babu, at CB and all left CB at 7:00 am. They were on the South Summit at 7225m together at 11:00 am. Da Gombu, Miss Pasang Lhamu and Mingma Dorje descended to C1 at 6:00 pm; the others stopped for the night in C2 at 6:00 pm. All were in BC on the 27th. They did not go beyond the South Summit because they were very tired and would have needed to go down to BC to rest before resuming climb, and perhaps would have to pitch C4. This would have meant at least another week on the mountain and 300 meters more rope. They were happy with the summit they did reach. Note: Kondo and Da Gombu are absolutely certain that Nangpai Gosum I, the western-most of the three Nangpai Gosum peaks, is the same as Pasang Lhamu Chuli, Cho Aui, and Jasamba. [Note: most maps consider this expedition's peak as Nangpai Gosum I.] Liaison officer Saroj Timalsina from the cultural department of the ministry of culture, tourism and civil aviation, became sick at base camp. Da Gombu believes he had pneumonia, but it could have been pulmonary edema. He was taken down from base camp on 8 Oct and died at Thami on the 11th. Sherpa summiters: Da Gombu, 9/7/58, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solu, Cho Oyu X1, Dhaulagiri X1 Pemba Dorje, 29/4/77, Beding, Everest X3, and speed climb claim, Lhotse X1, Manaslu X1 Miss Pasang Lhamu, 10/6/84, Gumila, Chaurikharka-8, no 8000ers Mingma Dorje, 17/7/79, Tapting, Solu, Everest X1 Lam Babu/Lama Babu, 23/9/68? 24/9/69?, Cheremy, Bung-9, Solu, Everest X3 (He was the only hired Sherpa on the team, although the Japanese financed the other Sherpas and all other costs)
Accidents -
Achievement 1st ascent of Nangpai Gosum I's South Summit
Agency Nepal Mountaineering Assoc/Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457301
Year 2006
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face of s smt

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kazuyoshi Kondo M 1941 Japan Leader Suginami-ku, Tokyo, Japan Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Kozu M 1947 Japan Climber Sakushi, Tokyo, Japan Electronic engineer Details Other expeditions
Da Gombu Sherpa M 1958 Nepal Deputy Leader Cheremy, Bung-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lama Babu Sherpa M 1968 Nepal H-A Worker Cheremy, Bung-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Dorje Sherpa M 1977 Nepal Climber Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Dorje (Mingmar Dorje) Sherpa M 1979 Nepal Climber Tapting, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa F 1984 Nepal Climber Gumela, Chaurikharka, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Saroj Timilsina M 1970 Nepal Liaison Officer Ganeshsthan, Dharamasthali Civil servant Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
NAG106301 JAN Kondo, Kazuyoshi South Peak 7240m of Nampaigosum - 8:21-23 (May 2007) -
NAG106301 AAJ Kondo, Kazuyoshi - - 81:385-386 (2007) -
NAG106301 CLIM - - - 38:70 (Apr 2008) -
NAG106301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200738500/Asia-Nepal-Mahalangur-HimalKhumbu-Section-Nampai-Gosum-I-South-Summit - - -
NAG106301 - - http://jac.or.jp/english/images/vol8/jan-vol8-21-23.pdf - - -